rubber fuel lines
rubber fuel lines
Hi guy's I am New to the ctd life and i'm loving it except i am having a hot starting problem. i have a 2000 24v wit 58k. after spending hours on this site i think my problem is a rubber fuel line. i just replaced the fuel filter and checked the pressure 18 lbs at idle. My dad is a deisel mechanic with 30 years expierence but he hasn't worked on the small engines much so he can't tell me much. I need to know where all of the rubber fuel lines are on both intake and return i know there is some on the intake before the filter and the injsctor pump. Where ar the ones on the return? how easy are they to get to? any info will help thank for all help<br>
Re:rubber fuel lines
not sure on yours but on my truck i went under and followed lines from the tank. they went along frame and then headed up along the firewall on drivers side and then in behind filter and lift pump etc. hard to see and lots of fun to change. good luck
Re:rubber fuel lines
I just had a problem with a rough idle when hot, then I started to get hard starting when hot too........<br><br>fuel pressure was fine once running, but I noticed it took a few seconds to build pressure after it started it would not build pressure at all when I bumped the starter and made the pump run for 30 seconds..........<br><br>1st thought was fuel filter/lift pump ........replaced both still had the problem.......<br><br>turned out to be a hole rubbed through the steel fuel line from the tank.........<br><br>it's a 3/8" steel line running from the tank to the firewall and then a short rubber line hooks from the firewall to the lift pump ................<br><br>
Re:rubber fuel lines
Hey dodgeram did you have to buy the replacement line from the dealer or is their somewhere i could get it? How did you go about finding the leak? was it easily noticable or did you have to pull the line and look it over. thanks for the info.
Re:rubber fuel lines
leak got bad enough it started dripping fuel on the ground after I shut the truck off, so it was easy to spot (had to drop the tank to see it though ...
I a mechanic do it as I was fed up after having just spent 400 bucks on a lift pump and fuel filter to no avail (leak didn't start dripping untill after I changed the pump, wich was a PITA BTW), only cost me 50 bucks, he used a section of 3/8" steel brake/fuel line, he cut out the bad section and put in a new piece using 2 3/8" couplers
he had to drop the tank to get at the lines ....it was leaking right close to the tank

I a mechanic do it as I was fed up after having just spent 400 bucks on a lift pump and fuel filter to no avail (leak didn't start dripping untill after I changed the pump, wich was a PITA BTW), only cost me 50 bucks, he used a section of 3/8" steel brake/fuel line, he cut out the bad section and put in a new piece using 2 3/8" couplers
he had to drop the tank to get at the lines ....it was leaking right close to the tank
Re:rubber fuel lines
Finding a "vacuum" leak can be difficult. I have had luck by using a 12v compressor in the filler hole, blocked off with rags, and then tracing the lines forward. It is easier to see/hear the leak under pressure.<br>george
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Re:rubber fuel lines
Maybe this fuel system components drawing will help with the fuel lines' locations.<br><br>http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mt_...l_sys_comp.htm<br><br>Sometimes a hard starting when the engine is hot is a sign of the VP-44 starting to go. Too high of a fuel pressure during cranking will cause a hard start condition also.<br><br>You may have a cracked fuel return line. This is a common problem on the 12 valve engines. The rubber return line usually develops small cracks in the area above the starter. The heat from the engine fatigued the hoses.<br><br>
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