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New loud clatter in cab: HELP!

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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 04:17 AM
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New loud clatter in cab: HELP!

Hello!
Ok so I had a (warranty) engine swap on my '04.5 recently (because of a "FRAM" oil filter that came apart) and ever since they did the swap it has a loud almost what sounds like "valve clatter" inside the cab. I told the dealer about it and they said bring it up and they did a valve adjust on it and it did not help at all. The mech. insists that it's normal, but I know it's not. The deal is, is that it sounds like there is an open vent or duct allowing the noise of the (what I'm thinking) exhaust at the head to come in the cab. They did have to lift the cab off the chassis to R&R the motor and I'm wondering if there might be an opening that never got closed some how. It's loudest right under the glove box near the front of the door near the floor. If anyone might know anything it would be greatly appreciated!!!!! Thanks, Scott...

Ok, one more thing. It goes away and comes back and it definitely has more power (acceleration) when it goes away?????

Also, I checked out the exhaust for leaks and/or soot lines or sheared off bolts and found none.
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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It Sounds Like An Exauhst Leak. They Might Have Broken Off A Bolt Of Didnt Tighten Something Up. Or They Didnt Change Your Gaskets And Used The Old Ones.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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That's what I would guess too. It's hard to diagnose with out actually hearing it. I hope you switched to a fleetguard oil filter! All I have heard about Fram is bad news.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 10:16 AM
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You might want to take a good look at the boot around where the shift linkage goes through the dash, and/or the boots for the transmission and transfer case.

Strange they would have pulled the cab.

Anyway, welcome to the forum.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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thought only fords needed the cab lifted off, maybe check the bolts that hold the cab to the frame
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 03:02 AM
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One other thing I did notice and am wondering about: After the Engine swap I now have to shut the rig off to hear(like in a drive through), like when I had my 2000(Gen.2). Is the Gen.3(5.9) Block the same as the Gen.2 and could they have used a Gen.2 block apon swapping? They said it was a "Long Block" swap and that they used the same head, so why would it make more clatter now???
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff in TD
You might want to take a good look at the boot around where the shift linkage goes through the dash, and/or the boots for the transmission and transfer case.

Strange they would have pulled the cab.

Anyway, welcome to the forum.
Will do! Thanks Jeff...
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 05:29 AM
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One other thing I did notice and am wondering about: After the Engine swap I now have to shut the rig off to hear(like in a drive through), like when I had my 2000(Gen.2). Is the Gen.3(5.9) Block the same as the Gen.2 and could they have used a Gen.2 block apon swapping? They said it was a "Long Block" swap and that they used the same head, so why would it make more clatter now???
I don't know if 2nd gen and 3rd gen short blocks are interchangeable, but my understanding was that the reduced "clack" of the 3rd gens is due to the common rail injection system that can do several injection events per power stroke...

My guess would be you either have a boot or gromet missing somewhere, or maybe an exhaust leak.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:48 AM
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Hmmmmm, wonder if it IS something that has to do with the injectors??? I do notice an increase in power when it is quieter....
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 11:08 PM
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Could be injector issue, goes away and comes back. Have them run injector test to determine which one is not contributing 100%. Have the injectors replaced since when replacing engine could have gotten contamination into fuel lines. Very likely unless mechanic kept injectors and fuel lines clean.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 04:54 AM
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Yeah I was talking to the Mech. about the possibility of the noise being the injectors and he told me to add some injector cleaner to the fuel and it seems to have gotten louder since I did that...
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 07:22 AM
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Another thing to check is all the adapter tubes that go through the head to the injectors. Had dealers install new injectors in mine and they pulled one to retest and kept useing old tube and guess what it leaked. Was told by 3 other shops in the area change tubes everytime the injectors come out. Also could be the FCA sticking causeing improper rail pressure. I had one fail and another one that is hanging alittle, thanks agian to the dealer. Try some ashless 2 stoke oil for one tank if it goes away then next tank straight fuel if it comes back its the FCA hangin. One piece of fly doo doo is all it takes at these tight clearences.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Thanks for the info, will do!
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 07:37 AM
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How much ashless 2 stroke oil should I add to the tank?
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 09:36 AM
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I run put a litre/quart to a full tank
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