Might try to "reverse" bleed it. Pull the piston back out, fill up the bore, put piston back in, and push all that fluid back to the resevoir. Then hold the piston back in until you can get the slave bolted back in place and make sure the resevoir is still full. Hardest part is making sure the piston bore is completely full and not getting any air inbetween the piston and the fluid when putting it all back together. Not the best design! I don't know how the heck they bleed that assembly when they put it toghether!

 

The only problem is.....I have the new unit installed 100%. Are you saing I need to remove the complete unit (like the pictures of the old one) and start over with reverse bleeding? I cannot beleive Dodge would build a Mst and a Slave and NO WAY TO BLEED IT!

This sucks!

 

No, just take out the slave again. You can leave the rest of it mounted I would think!

 

Did you look inside and see if the clutch arm was already depressed or out of place? Get it bled yet?

Mark

 

The "fork" if thats correct, inside the transmission has a small round dibit in it. Im guessing thats where the piston shaft rests and does it job going in and out.. Correct?

Okay, the "dibit" is centered in the open hole that the slave fits into. It is set back about 1-1/4" right now and it cant be pushed in by hand. Im assuming thats a good thing.

My thinking is... Completly remove the entire unit and place it in a 5 gallon bucket of brake fluid to fill the system.

Now, on my old unit, tearing it apart at the slave. The rubber boot come off with no problem. The shaft come out as well. The plastic insert wont slide out, there is a plastic peice holding it in that seem to not allow it to come out.

But, the new one I installed that blew out, the plastic sleeve comes right out and goes right back in. I think something is wrong with my new replacement.

What would you try next?

BTH..The garage is attached to my home and Im running back and forth trying this and that and reading / posting messages here. So, Im trying to follow along with everyones advice!!

Thanks all

 

Even though the new unit looks like the old one, I have now found differences.

The old: The sleeve in the slave has a metal retainer clip that will not allow the sleeve to slide out and leak fluid. There is a small groove in the cylinder wall cut out to receive the clip. Once the clip is removed, the cylinder will come out along with the sleeve.

The new: No clip, no groove and the cylinder will slide right out.

So.........Im done until I talk to Dodge tomorrow and demand a replacement.

I will install it WITHOUT cutting the slave cylinder straps and that should solve my problem.

My only issue is that the local Dodge dealership didnt have any in stock and they sent me 1 hr up the road to another Dodge that only had 1 in stock.

SO....How much fight will I have with getting them to replace it and how far out will the next part be is all I am going to worry about now.

 

just FYI I am kinda in the same boat, but mine is due to the new south bend dd, the First hydrolic kit I Got from Dodge Was Full Of plastic fileings like from when they debured the resivor, the best way to bleed it is to take it all out and hold it upright cainster up top then master cly then the slave cly . , and press the slave cly in by hand a few times slowly. hope it helps, the cure for mine seam to be going with southbends upgraded kit. thats at least what every one is saying.

 

I've got a similar dilema...my clutch went soft on my last trip home pulling a 5th wheel...got it home & just replaced the master cylinder today...didn't let much air into the slave tube... then I bled the system using the slave cylinder pump trick, pumped the clutch and same thing...soft pedal & no clutch disengagement...it does return to position though...and the fork can not be pushed in...
seems to me if your clutch is not returning up, it's the master cylinder...it is spring loaded which makes it return...I'm going to try to bleed mine more when my wife gets home to help...can't get the cat to stop licking himself long enough to push the pedal down... Looks to me that I might have to invest in upgrading my master/slave system if I'm going to be installing the DD clutch??

 

Please read my post "Installing the new Mst and slave problem " 07-09-07

You will learn something if your replacing this unit yourself.

TRICKS THEY DONT TELL YOU! on how to install one....

Mine only cost $40,000 to replace! What a day.. :-)

 

Hmm
What did you do pick it up and drive a new truck under it?

Mark

 

Well, I got mine bled. I had to pull it into a ditch with my front end up in the air so the rest of the air would bleed out of the master cylinder. Now the clutch feels good and tight and I can get through the gears except 3rd. It will still grind, unless I double pump the clutch pedal before putting it in gear. Anybody have any idea why this is? Are my synchros' messed up? Any ideas would be help ful since I have a 5 1/2 trip pulling a 5th wheel this weekend. Don't want to have to drive it that way if I don't have to.

 

well if your going to put in a DD clutch , you need to get a SBC up-graded unit. Sounds like you need one any way. If you keep grinding that gear, you will be rebiulding that tranny. Ask me how i KNOW.

 

There is no bleeder on the clutch hyd if you bleed pull the roll pin from the slave cyl and let the fluid come out the tube but before you do that hold the slave cyl on a slite angle and fill it with fluid put them back togeather they are self bleeding thru the top

 

the end.....

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