I hate to do this seeing as I am a Noobie and all, but I need some help fast....<br><br>I got in my truck this afternoon and after the truck warmed up I turned my temperature control **** to cool it down in the cab and it doesn't change the temperture! It is stuck wide open hot! **** moves but temp does not change. All the other controls (output selector and fan) work fine. <br><br>On the older trucks, this **** use to run a cable. NOT this one, it has three wires. I guess there is a motor on the damper???? <br><br>Has anyone had this problem? It is a 2001 2500 Diesel 4x4. <br><br>The reason I need help is that I have a guy coming to look at my truck tomorrow to buy......<br><br>Thanks in advance for any help.......

 

This may not be the case, but check the **** itself. Some of the ***** had a plastic sleeve with no metal back-up. The plastic would split, allowing the **** to twist on the shaft.<br>Good luck<br>george

 

I have this exact same problem on mine. :'( I posted the problem and didn't get much response unfortunately. Like you, I traced the control **** and the 3 wires that exit it down to which looks like a small motor under the heat/cold evaporator housing on the passenger side. I attempted to remove the cover on this little motor but there is no clearance due to the driveshaft tunnel. I got the cover off enough to see there is several plastic gears inside (which will slide off their shafts when your remove the cover so be careful). <br><br>I wish I had a solution. I think mine is stuck somewhere between hot and cold (more hot) as I only get luke warm air even when the engine is at temp w/ thermostat open. It has to be either the motor or the switch. If someone has a scematic of this or would be willing to check the voltage output of the 3 wires feeding the small motor then we could test our switch and rule it out. If it is the motor it looks like a bugger to replace. <br><br>I might mess with mine again this weekend and if I find anything out, I'll post. Please do the same if you are able to troublehoot yours...<br><br>Thanks

 

jec3, <br>Well I hate that you are having a problem like I am having but at least we are not alone. We WILL get to the bottom of this and fiqure it out. I plan to FIX mine this weekend someway. I will post my findings..... Hang in there.....

 

Hey jec3, <br>Here is some info a guy sent me from a post a had on that &quot;other&quot; diesel site..... I thanked him for the both of us. I had pretty much ruled out the actuator this weekend. And yes those little plastic gears are a !!! Hope this helps... BTW, I tried three dodge stores for a switch this weekend with no luck!!!!<br><br>Jamie <br><br>The temp actuator (electric motor) uses a connector that has spaces for six wires but only has three wires in it. Back probe the wires while everything is connected to see what is going on. <br><br>The three wires are: <br><br>1. DB wire- 12V from the ign switch. Should have batt volts anytime the key is on. Fuse #2 supplies the power, if this fuse is blown the blower motor won't work either as the relay will not energize. <br><br>2. YL/OR wire- temperature select. Should have a varying voltage as you rotate the temp ****. <br><br>3. BK/LG wire- ground. Should show 0V if the ground is OK. <br><br>The colors are from an 02 manual, hopefully they are the same. All three tests have the black lead of the meter are on the batt neg. <br><br>The actuator replacement procedure states you have to remove the dash and evap housing. You may want to test at the back of the control head. Here's that info also. <br><br>Take the 5 way connector that has three wires in it. The same three wires will be present. It used the same power feed, same ground point of G200 and the actuator wire. <br><br>HTH, I'll try watch for more questions if you post again. <br>Wayne<br><br><br><br>

 

Thanks Jamie, I sent you a PM. The wiring votages are exactly what I needed. Seems I have no voltage reaching the motor but will check again tonight.<br><br>Good luck with yours and thanks again! <br><br>Jim

 

Guys I fixed this before. I have the Ram that rolled into the lake in Colorado. Mine is a 2000 and my temp did not change either. Its tight but you can get that motor housing out. Just to the right side of the center console under the dash, there is a little black box (about 3x3) mounted under the big black heater box. There is a wire connector and 2 screws holding this thing in there. The one screw is very tucked up under the dash. The carpet flexes as does the black plastic to get a phillips bit in there and turn it out, use the replaceable screw bits for drills maybe even take your Dremmel and grind it off shorter. Use needle nose pliers, 1/4 wrench and you can get it out, I did. Take the little black box apart and clean the little electric motor. Spray some WD40 in it and a little light oil on the gears and put it all back together, test it before completely mounting it. CAUTION, be sure the motor is in there the same as you found it, if it is back wards you will only have hot and cold no inbetween, the variable will not work if this motor is in backwards. This should do it guys. If not you may have to replace the motor but mine was filthy, wet, and rusty and it worked fine after it did this. The motor is in the bottom of the box and catches a lot of crap.

 

Thanks TS, I did get mine off this weekend. I used a special bent phillips screw driver I had. I took apart my motor and I think the little circuit boad is bad in mine as no voltage is making it to the motor. So had to go to dealer to order a new one, $100! <br><br>Here is an observation for all: when I had the motor off you can easily move the damper by hand, flops back and forth real easy (with fan motor off). But, with the blower on high and the damper all the way over on heat it was VERY difficult to move the damper. Could move it easily with fan on high from the cold side. By default the air wants to flop it to the hot side. So my recommendation for you all it to always turn your fan motor to low before you ever move the temp control **** from full on hot to something cooler. I would expect it puts tremendous strain on the motor to move it off hot with fan on high.<br><br>Also, for the several posts I have seen where their trucks seem to just put out luke warm air...Possibly your air dampers aren't closing all the way over to the hot side. Mine never really blew real warm. But this morning, wow, with the motor off and the damper defaulted over to the warm side, I was getting hot air well before the truck temp even came up. I am not sure how the motor knows when to stop based on the position of the temp **** but I think you can adjust this. If you attempt this be carefull to pay attention to how the gears go back in as they will want to fall out as you remove the access cover to the motor and drive mechanism.<br><br>Jim