I was driving yesterday & developed a BAD fuel leak. I was 25 miles from home and lost 10 gallons of fuel getting home. Anyway, when I did get home I popped the hood and w/ the engine idleing I saw fuel spraying out right from where the injector line goes into the injector. Is this as simple as replacing the line between the common rail & the injector? Could the injector itself be causing the leak? I assume that when I take the line off the entire fuel system will have to be bled. How do I do this?

The truck has 110,000 miles - why would the line or injector develop a leak all of a sudden?

UPDATE: I checked the injector line nut and I tightened it about 1/16 of a turn. I could only put a box wrench on it (and not even get the full flats on it as the wrenbch was at an angle), so I could not put alot of torque on it for fear rounding off the nut. Could my issue be as simple as the line nut loosening up? Do they make a special tool for the injector line nut?

 

Check the vibration isolation clamps, they loosen after time allowing the fuel lines to vibrate which in turn causes the fuel line to crack. you can get the line at Cummins or Dodge. It will be cheaper at Cummins. I would also get new vibration clamps. You will need your engine number if you are going through Cummins.

The fuel system will self bleed once you change the line. The engine will stumble and stall once you first start it but it should smooth right out once it runs for a few seconds.




Tim

 

I can get the truck to start at all now. I took off one of the electrical connections on the intake manifold so that I could get more access w/ a crowfoot. Forgot to reconnect & cranked a few times. Reconnected, but now it still won't start! I'm thinking that I got air in it through the leaky injector, but who knows...

Any suggestions?

 

Where do I find my engine number?

 

Have you checked for codes with key cycle.

 

I did not know that you could do the key cycle thing w/ the newer trucks. How do I check for codes this way?

 

The engine # is on a sticker on the drivers side of the valve cover.

Pull off the fuel filter cover and cycle the key to make sure your fuel pump is working. If it is working then reinstall the cover ( change the filter) and cycle the key several times waiting appx 10 seconds in between key cycles. make sure you go all the way to the off position when cycling the key, this will precharge the fuel system. Do you have the intank fuel pump conversion?


Do not use either to start this engine.


Tim

 

Found the engine # - Thanks.

I think I sucked air in when I pulled the electrical fitting and cranked over. Also, looking closer at the injector line, it is definately cracked. I'll cycle the key to precharge the system, but think that I will have a tough time bleeding it. Does it help to have all the injectors cracked open before I start cranking until I see fuel come out? Hate working the existing injector lines (i.e. the injector lines that will not be replaced) if I don't have to.

 

Do not open any other lines. The common rail system will self bleed, it will make some noises sometimes, but if you precharge the system it should not be a problem. Make sure your electrical connections are good. It may takes some extended cranking to initially start the engine, don't worry about it, it is normal after opening up the fuel system. Once you get the engine running let it run for a few minutes and check it for leaks, if you find a leak SHUT down the engine before attempting to repair it. How did the sealing edge of the injector tube look?



Tim

 

The sealing edge of the injector tube was very pitted.

 

You should change the injector tube also.


Tim

 

OK, replaced the line & engine runs fine. I now have a CEL on & get the following codes:P0069, P0113, P0237. I'm thinking when I had the electrical connection open & cranked the engine over (before the leak was fixed) that it got doused w/ diesel fuel. Hopefully, the codes will clear out over next couple of days.