I personally tried everything with the sockets and chisel and all the other stuff, but didn't work at all, on mine, did my friends no sweat though. I ended up cutting the upper and lower balljoint to get the dag-on thing off. then went to the mighty torch and 50 ton press and went to work. heated it up to break the rust free and let it cool off a little and pressed the heck out of it till it dropped out, cleaned up the rust, put some antisieze in there and put it all back together.

 

If you are still stuck, pick up some Kroil and apply it to all the components. Let it set overnight and it will dissolve the rust. If you cannot find Kroil, try your gun shop. Kroil is not cheap, but it does amazing things with rust. PB Blaster will also work, if you squirt on some acetone after you drench everything, then let it stand for two days. The downside is the acetone is tough on any rubber seals but it causes the PB Blaster to creep into the rust joints.

 

Kroil has been used by industry for generations... it's that good!

We use it in the shop because it will free parts without damage better than brute force (torches, presses, seriously huge BFHs, etc.) because it will penetrate gaps as small as one millionth of an inch - it's really amazing what it can do.

 

we use Kroil at my work too, I LOVE it even if it is $9.00 bucks a can!!

it is worth it tho

 

go get a big *** side hamer, i purchesd a 35lb for like 170bucks well woth it
thats how ya spost to get it out
get a plate with holes in it atach it to your studs and slide

 

Great!.....Plenty more options to try now, and thanks to all for the replies. Think I'll try in this order...
1. KROIL...I subscribe to FARMALLCUB.COM forum and have listened to a fellow from TN. "tout" the great results he has gotten after switching to Kroil. I guess now is my chance to give it a whirl. Will replace PB with Kroil and give it a few days with the hammer first.

2. Will try to find a friend with an air or elec. hammer. Was thinking of this also...might just give enough vibration to work.

3. Will put rod ends back on, spindle nuts, and wheels , and try the light driving option. Nothing to loose at this point. Could see this might do the trick.

4. Cut the balljoints off and put it on the bench. Then cough up another 180.00 for uppers as opposed to 400.00? for bearings. Hope it doesn't go this far.

5. SHOOT the

One more thing. I've not even seen what my adversary looks like when seperated. Does anyone have a pic or so showing how much bearing is in yoke? etc.? I'll do a search in the meantime and maybe find something.
Thanks again guys!
Chris Todd

 

Definitely shoot that thing! We take our outdated/nonfunctioning IT stuff and the unsalvageable, aggravating parts out in the back and blast away with something out of the toolbox...

 

Not light driving. Hard braking while swerving to load the offending wheel (at low speed of course). If it hasn't popped after a couple times around the block doing that, then it is time to shoot the dang thing.

 

I feel your pain. If you are wanting it done a little quicker take the dang thing off and take it to a good welding shop "unless your comfortable doing this". Have the welder take the torch to it and cut the bearing assembly out of the housing. you will probably get a small hole burned in the rotor shield but that won't hurt anyting. Cut it on each side and tap it with a little hammer once and watch your feet cause it will fall right out. I had the same problem on my old 01 when my bearings went out and had to do both of them that way . It sucks but thats how it goes I guess. Just be sure to put plenty of antiseize in it no matter how you get it out so that you can get it back out in a couple thousand miles to replace it after all the beating you given it .

 

You'll get more leverage to push it apart if you stick a good sized socket between the U-joint and the axle housing and crank the steering. This worked for me. It's worth a try. Sounds like you've got nothing to lose. Good luck with it.

 

last resort a big puller and a big hammer on the back of the rotor with a piece of wood to protect the rotor of course. That worked for me. Driver side took about 10 min and passenger side bout 5 min. This did not mess anything up to my knowledge but I was install a free spin hub kit so did not need to reuse all that anyway.

 

He's got an '01, outboard rotors. I did one last weekend, my dad made a tool for a friend of ours at a shop a while ago that slips in behind the yoke and presses against the axle tube, with the 4 bolts backed off, you push on those with 4 1/2" bolts, tighten up good and tight and give it a couple of smacks with a hammer and it'll pop right off. Turns a day job into an hour job.

 

Have used the socket trick twice with great success . This last time , no go . Put it back together , left the knuckle bolts slightly loose , drove down my dirt road turning hard left and right while braking hard and she finally popped . Gotta love the salt . Good luck

 

What do you mean the socket between the axle and hub did not work, if you start the truck use the power steering, it will push the hub out or break the socket.

 

Like I said , have done it before and worked great , this time no go , and yes I was using the power steering . Guess I have good sockets , didn't break , it felt like something else might have if I pulled any harder . You have to be creative in salt country , nothing works as it should .