Okay guys, I'm open to all help here. I've got a 2000 QC 4x4 2500 with an auto tranny. About a week ago it started "hanging up" when trying to shift out of first. I bought the truck with 150k on it. It now has 160K, and I have no idea of repairs/maintenance prior to my buying it. I took it in to the dealership last week and had the tranny serviced. I thought I did it right. Had them drop the pan, clean it out, change filters, then flush it. They said they didn't see anything else wrong, don't know what they can tell from their view. Anyway, it drove fine for a few days. Got in this morning and it won't shift out of first. Are there any ideas to check before I go to a shop? I'm going to check the negative battery cable set up tonight after work. Are there any other things to look at? Cables, lines, etc... Also, if I have to rebuild, are there any suggestions for bulletproofing that aren't too expensive? I tow about 6k-8k pounds, from what I've read, this isn't much for this truck. As usual, all help is greatly appreciated.

 

In your post you indicate that the dealer changed the filter and then did the trany flush...Is this correct?? If so I would suggest you get another filter installed. I would suspect that the previous owner may not have serviced the trans. What shape was the oil in when it was removed (dark red/brown or clear). Also may need to consider having the bands tightened by the dealer.
Also make sure that the shudder guard as specified by Dodge was added as this will also improve shifting.

I hate to tell you this, but I had similar issues as you are experiencing as well as a serious shudder between shifts. My TC was hooped and required replacement, once the TC is gone the entire trans should be re-done as the fragments from the TC will result if premature failure of the rest of the trans.

I had a TCI Maximizer Tripple Disc Billet TC installed, All new clutch packs with one additional disc per pack, high performance valve body and deep tranny pan. Although mine was on warranty I still replaced with a performance trans rather than putting the same piece of junk back in. I get increased fuel mileage, better towing and a more agressive shift pattern for play.

 

Thanks for the input. When I talked to the dealer this morning, his first thought was the governor pressure solenoid/switch. I'm hoping this is the problem, because I don't want to spend the extra $$ on a new rebuild right now. However, I'm going to spend my down time researching a more aggressive TC and valve body, just in case it comes to that. I will mention the filter issue. He said the fluid was pretty nasty when he changed it. I had him drop the pan and do the filters first, hoping this would prevent any chunks from flying around inside when he flushed it. He said there was no metal in the pan, just really dirty fluid. Thanks.

 

Good place to start, cheap part that can cause a LOT of problems.

Good Luck, although, with that amount of miles, you may not be long (if not now) from a rebuild/replace anyway.

 

If I do end up rebuilding, is there a minimum I should do as an upgrade. For example, would just doing the TC be a waste of time/money without doing the valve body. I'm not real knowledgeable about trannys. Also, does anyone know of a good supplier for parts in the OKC area? Thanks, again.

 

Okay guys here it is. Talked to a local tranny shop. He said that I never should've opened it up with that many miles on it. Said the discolored fluid was due to clutches worn out, and that by changing the fluid, sped up the thing going bad. Anyway, he does a free computer diagnostic, free tow, seems to be a pretty reputable place from what I've gathered. A rebuild, if it needs it, is 1350.00. How's this sound? Any comments are welcome.

 

Do yourself a favour, bite the bullet and get the full rebuild done (extra clutches in each sift pack, performance valve body, deep tranny pan and at a minimum a Billet tripple disk TC or better (maybe TCI ot ATS). The less money you spend now will end up costing you more in the future. The biggest part of the cost is the RE/RE of the trans the rest is just icing on the cake. And we all know that the cake tastes better with icing.....

 

I'd actually turn the key from off to on 3 times and see whether there are any codes showing up on the odometer.... if not only P-Done lights up I'd write hem down and post them here.
If nothing shows up I'd try to get a code reader from some shop to access the codes- if there is an indication for the governor pressure sensor or the solenoid I'd just change the part(s) indicated.
These trannies ain't so bad as a lot of folks think.
If you want to bullet-proof it do it really right the first time- Achilles comes to my mind...

HTH

AlpineRAM

 

I went home Friday evening, pulled the batteries, they tested good. Cleaned the cable ends, battery posts, checked grounds, and when I started it up, it drove as good as it did before. Only code that showed was 0720, don't know what that is. I'm leaving it at the dealer who serviced it Monday to do a diagnostic. Beginning to think the pressure solenoid may be headed west. Thanks for everyone's help. If i ever learn enough to return the favor I will.

 

P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction

A lot of the codes can be found at http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/index.php

Some of them are not applicable to our trucks.

HTH

AlpineRAM

 

Just so maybe someone in the future can use the info. It was the speed sensor in the rearend. It was intermittent, they had to drive it 3 times to get it to fail so they could find it. But, the bright side is $150 later I'm back on the road, not $3000.