Need help finding fuse/fuses for fuel pump shut off solenoid.I want to make shure it's getting voltage before replacing a $500.00 part.it has 3 wires going to it, 1 smaller,2 bigger.I was told the voltage in the smaller wire holds the solenoid open,once it's been opened.I have voltage here.The other 2 larger wires are a pos and a neg.I have neg and I was told I should have pos for about 10 seconds after key on.I don't and I can't find the fuse and or relay.
If anyone has any input on this matter i would greatly appreciate the HELP.

 

Relays are up on the firewall, straigh back and up from your fuel filter. Most of the time those or the blue wire over at the drivers battery is the cause for a no start on the 12v. If you go key on and lift up on the solenoid pintle it should stick in the "up" position and allow you to start your truck. I've also gotten a fair share of tow ins started up by "tapping" on the relays with a wrench.

 

Thanks J Body,I guess I could have saved myself a bunch of typing and others a bunch of reading if I went though the old post first.I found an excellent post 11-27-05 that you responded to.I am pretty sure I can fix er now.Thanks to DTR, J Body and other guys like you,I got the information I needed,saved a trip to the repair shop,and probably a whole swack of $$$$.

 

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm If you need parts or a solnoid which I doubt as J is right on, check here, he is great to work with and if you have never changed out the starter contacts he has them and I highly recommend it is time, as when they go it can burn up your fuel solnoid. Goodluck,,Rick

 

OK,back to begining.the fuel shut off solenoid pulls open when the engine is cranking over.buuuuuuuutt doesn't hold.can someone tell me the proper test procedure? I spent the entire afternoon analyzing the crap out of this and my brain is fried

 

Just run a jumper from the disconnected solenoid connector ground (blk/tan) to your battery negative. Use another wire from your battery positive to the connector's red/violet wire, the solenoid should pull up.
Leave the ground connected and jump from positive to the light green/blk wire and help the solenoid lift up, it should stay up.
If neither of these work the solenoid is shot, unlikely though.
If it checks out in both functions but won't stay up with the connector plugged back in the problem is in the wiring or your key switch.

 

Any luck nutman??

Mine started acting up yesterday. Had to lift it with the key on before starting it a couple of times. Also shuts off with a slightly delayed reaction. Does this mean that it just needs cleaned??

 

My 1996 is doing the same thing. Its not starting and I noticed that the I have to pull up on the silinode to get it to start and when I turn the key to off the truck runs for awhile before shuting off. What is this problem, a bad ignition switch or what.

 

Could be a weak relay, but I would bet the solenoid boot is rotted and the solenoid is filthy and needs cleaning, and you can replace the boot with a piece of bicycle tube. Do a search on cleaning and readjusting when reinstalling after the cleaning. Goodluck,,RIck

 

The fusable link is for the starting (pull up) side of the relay. The holding side of the relay comes straight off a fuse inside the truck (I think fuse #9).

good luck

db

 

I replaced the relay and still have the problem. When the key is in the on position the solenoid is in the down position, I have to pull it up to start it and when I shut it off it runs for about 3-5 seconds before shutting off.

 

dodgefan-

Are you saying the solenoid doesn't pull up on it's own while cranking?

Perhaps:
1) blue fusable link blown. - If not
2) contacts that make (close) when starter engages are not making connection. (usually when these fail they do the opposite and weld shut and burn up starter & solenoid-so I have read) If they're working ok the-
3) relay may be bad. (which you allready replaced) So try checking for a-
4) bad or dirty solenoid plunger. - (mine was dirty because the rubber boot had disenagraded allowing cr*p to build up inside the solenoid untill it failed)

1 through 3 is basically how the power for the pull-up side goes.

Again
-From the positive post. (driver side battery)
-To the blue fusable link. (attached to the battery)
-From the link to the relay on the firewall (normally open - which is only activated when the starter is engaged)
-From the relay to the solenoid.

As far as the holding side not releasing for 2-3 seconds after the key is turned off. I would say that your solenoid is mechanicaly hanging up. Try cleaning it up a bit.

Is your rubber boot still intact? That's what ruined mine.

Are your familiar with a 12 volt meter or test light?
If so you could unplug the harness on the solenoid and see if it's getting power to it.
I believe grn/blk is hold & red/violet is pull (Check the wiring diagram on the foster truck link posted earlier in this thread by kandgo. This diagram is located on the high lighted sentance under the "fuel shut off relay" description).
You should get power to the the pull side while the engine is cranking & get power to the hold side while the key is in the on position.

have fun

db