Thank you to everyone who helped with my turbo and blowby questions.

The other day an operator with 45 years experience running and owning heavy equipment came by and told me I had a hole in one of my cylinders.

I have a Case bulldozer with a 8.3 Cummins engine.

He said to pull off the injectors one at a time at idle to see which one is dead.

Turned out to be number six.

He also told me it was real common to burn a hole in a piston on a dozer by lugging it and killing the engine under load. I've done this allot, so it's not a huge suprise.

I need to put a new piston in it.

Here's my question.

Can I remove the oil pan and pull the piston out without taking off the head?

Should I replace all the pistons or is there a way to check to see if they are still good?

Do you do anything to the cylinder walls before putting in new pistons, or will they seat themselves after awhile?

Can I just replace the bearings on the crank with new ones or is there something i need to do first?

Is there a website with torque specifications for a 1989 Cummins 8.3?

What am I missing and how bad of an idea is this???

I'm realy an idiot on diesels and my experience with gas engines was 20 years ago in my youth.

Please help.

Thank you,
Eddie

 

I really don't know for sure, but I doubt that with the length of the piston skirt you have enough room to get it out past the crank shaft. Just a wild guess, but at least your thread is back to the top with a post for today.

 

On the engines I've seen with a dead 6, the cylinder wall was scored pretty bad. You'll have to remove the head and most likely find someone to machine that cylinder.

 

you will have to remove the head to get the piston out and you could replace just that piston and bearings and it would probably run fine but while your into it that far I would go ahead and replace all six pistons, wristpins, bearings and while your in there check for little green plastic tubes in the oil pan they are the oil cooling nozzles and should be replaced with steel ones.

 

I'm pretty sure the 8.3L is a wet sleeved engine. If the cylinder walls are too far gone, toss it in the scrap and drop a new one in. You may also want to check for cavitation damage when you pull the #6 sleeve, if there is any then I would suggest replacing them all so you don't have to do this again in a short time and maintaining the cooling system in the future to prevent cavitaion damage.

 

Thank you for your help and advice.

You're right about lack of room underneath. Bad idea. LOL

I have everything off and I'm ready to pull the head, but had to get an attachment onto my front bucket on my backhoe to pick it up with. I've done that and now I'm waiting for things to dryout.

Is there a source online that explains how to remove a cylinder lining?

Never done this before.

Is there a source with tourque settings and sequence for putting the head back on? Also the connecting rod caps?

What is "cavitation damage?"

As to the "little green plastic tubes in the oil pan" what is this and were would I find them?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

to pull the sleeves you need a puller that bridges the block outside of the sleeve and grabs the bottom of the sleeve. a farm implement dealer or a big rig shop should have one.

Cavitation damage occurs when the engine vibration is at a certain frquency and it pushes the coolant away from the sleeve and the slams it back into the sleeve and causes pitting of the surface of the sleeve.

The green things are piston cooling nozzles at the bottom of the cylinder that spray oil on the bottom side of the piston to cool it. once you have the piston out you should see a tube sticking into the cylinder from below the sleeve.

 

OK, I ran into a problem. How do you get the fuel injectors out?

They are the Bosch type.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...on003Small.jpg

Eddie