I was puting in a new BHAF filter just now and noticed a couple of good sized cracks in the manifold. I think I know how it happened.... I sprayed the engine at the carwash after running the truck for some time= pretty warm. I asume the water on a hot manifold caused the cracking.

1st question: It looks easy to replace myself.......right?
2nd: Should I order a new one or go to the wrecking yards?(there are a bunch of them around here. I have 125k on the motor so maybe new whould be better?
3rd: I don't have a manual anymore(long p-o'd story) is there anything tricky or just unbolt and replace gasket and manifold?
4TH: AND IMPORTANT.... is it ok to drive until I get the parts?
I did notice the noise from it a few days ago.

Thanks.

 

There is a used manifold in the classifieds if you are interested. If money isn't an issue I would go with a three piece manifold that should prevent it from cracking again. I can get torque specifications and pattern when I get home tonight, if that will help.

 

Thanks for the heads up !! I'll check out the classifieds. And yes, torque specs would be appreciated when yopu get a chance. Thanks

 

The best choice would be to go with the ATS 3-piece. Only because stock manifolds are known to crack with regular use. So you may replace the manifold with a stock unit only to find that it may crack again.

 

The water on the manifold probably had nothing to do with the cracking, it's a well known trait on the 24 valve engine.
No doubt the used manifold in the classifieds is from someone who replaced it with an ATS. I personally wouldn't mess with it. The stock manifold might crack badly on you in the middle of Baja, avoid that scenario and replace it with an ATS.

 

Will it hurt to drive the truck until I get a new manifold & how hard is it to swap out........I,m thinking of spraying the bolts down asap with some penetrating lube but don't want to smell the burn off...... I dunno

 

Torque the manifold bolts to 32 ft lbs in this pattern. (looking at motor from passenger side 12= upper rear bolt 10=lower front bolt)

12 8 4 1 5 9

11 7 3 2 6 10

Torque the turbo to manifold nuts to 24 ft lbs.
Exhaust pipe to turbo 25 ft lbs.
Oil supply line to 133 in lbs.
Oil return 18 ft lbs.

Specifications are for a 2001 but they should be the same.
If you can I also would recommend the ATS three piece manifold. If you choose to go with stock, these figures should get you back in business.

Good luck and let me know if I can help with anything else.
Max

 

Thanks so much for the info...... I am looking to see if I can go for the ATS money-wise.

 

I don't know if or what kind of damage it will do if you drive it. I will leave that for the experts. If you need anything else just p.m. me and I will look it up. I read somewhere that if you assemble the ATS on the bench and line it up with the stock manifold turned upside down it will bolt right up. I don't know if this works for sure I haven't had to cross that bridge yet!

 

Won't hurt to drive for a little while, assuming the cracks aren't big enough to stick your finger in, of course.

 

I put my ATS on a few weeks ago and am very happy. Added the egt probe too.

I baked the center section in the oven, per the instructions for about an hour. One side went right in, the other halfway. So I beat the assembly on a 2x4 to line it up with the stock manifold. (thick gloves are good)

I left the turbo hanging. It just pushed to the side intact. (disconnect the clamps off of the AT fluid lines) Took me about 4 hours @ night. Cleaned the old metal gaskets with sandpaper and reused. Be mindful of the oil return tube seal from the turbo.

To get the old MF and the turbo off you will need a 15mm stubby comb wrench. If you do go ATS(put it to bed for good) they use 8mm allen bolts. A ball end allen wrench makes it much easier.

I did have to redrill one hole on the mounting bracket for the heater hose.

Check ebay for used manifolds < 100, new stock +250, ATS 420 or so delivered from Extreme Diesel (great vendor).

best luck,

Loren