nvr-enuf

Hello everyone - I am leaving for FL tomorrow from WI and I just noticed a minor coolant leak or atleast I believe that it is coolant based on the smell / feel. It seems to be coming near the A/C compressor. I have a picture but Tiny pic says type in the code below and I can see no code!

I would really appreciate any advice on how bad the leak could be / where is it coming from because I can not see it.
Thanks
Scott

nvr-enuf

Picture is taken from the underside of the truck

nvr-enuf

Looks like the water pump - Does anyone know based on it "dripping, one drop every couple of seconds" if the water pump will live for 3000 miles?h

staarma

It has a weep hole by design. When the pump fails or is failing it is supposed to drip from the weep hole otherwise you don't know until it's too late. I wouldn't go 30 miles with it. It needs changed out ASAP. Not a hard ordeal but a little time consuming is all. Any parts store will have one. Remember to use the right coolant spec when you refill the system.

annabelle

Two bolts (If I remember right)......took 30 min. Better safe than sorry. Bought one from Autozone.....as said......make sure and get HOAT rated coolant (bought Zerex G5 at Autozone). Check your belt while you are at it.

homelessgdog

Not sure if this is going to be an ongoing problem. Just had water pump replaced 5k miles ago.
I just came back from Iraq. Truck sitting getting started by wife once a week. She would drive only to grocery.
I see coolant in driveway again!
Do you think there is any other problem????

Dr.Dizzle

If the truck you are referring to is an 06, then the issue is related to a short piece of foil covered coolant hose. I have attaced a thread that explains the repair. I hope you find this helpful and thanks for your service.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=foil+hose

Bark

If not,, here are some notes I made for an 04. I am trying to find out who made the original post to give him credit. The only thing I would add is to drain the radiator using the lower hose if you are in a hurry since the drain valve on the radiator might goof up.

"Once you remove the belt and drain the coolant, the rest is simple. The pump utilizes 2 - 10 mm bolts. The housing to block surfaces are sealed with an o-ring that comes with the new pump. Make sure to install the new pump with the weephole facing toward the ground. Once the new pump is on and the 2-10mm bolts are snug, torque the bolts to 18ft.lbs.
You will not need to remove the shroud or anything else in order to remove the belt. Open your hood and look down, it should have the routing diagram on the shroud. The automatic tensioner (# 7 ) is located below and between the alternator pulley(#1) and the water pump pulley (#2). You can place a 1/2" drive socket wrench or breaker bar into the square hole on the belt tensioner in order to relieve the tension from the belt.


Keep in mind that you will also need the correct coolant as I believe you posted about this a month or so ago. The third generation Dodge Ram specs. a (Glysantin) G-05 HOAT coolant. At the present time, there are four G0-5 HOAT coolants available. All of which are suitable for use in the Dodge Ram CTD.The following list contains those coolants:

Mopar 5 Year/100,000 Mile with (HOAT) Embittered

Ford / Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant - Ford Part #VC-7A

Mercedes Benz Antifreeze Agent - Part # Q 103 0002

Valvoline Zerex G-05 Hoat -

Available in concentrate. The NAPA part # is ZXG051. NAPA carries all of the Valvoline product line. If they do not have it on the shelves or behind the counter, a store associate can order it for you.

The following is from the 2003 DR Dodge Ram Service Manual:

REMOVAL
CAUTION: Do not attempt to check belt tension with
a belt tension gauge on vehicles equipped with an
automatic belt tensioner. Refer to Automatic Belt
Tensioner in this group.
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these schematics
and the Belt Routing Label, use the schematics
on Belt Routing Label.This label is located in
the engine compartment.
Drive belts on diesel engines are equipped with a
spring loaded automatic belt tensioner. displays the
tensioner for vehicles without air conditioning.
This belt tensioner will be used on all belt configurations,
such as with or without air conditioning.
For more information, (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/BELT TENSIONERS - DESCRIPTION).
(1) A 1/2 inch square hole is provided in the automatic
belt tensioner. Attach a 1/2 inch drive-long
handle ratchet to this hole.
(2) Rotate ratchet and tensioner assembly clockwise
(as viewed from front) until tension has been
relieved from belt.
(3) Remove belt from water pump pulley first.
(4) Remove belt from vehicle.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When installing the accessory drive belt,
the belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may
overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong
direction. Refer to (Fig. 15) for correct engine belt
routing. The correct belt with correct length must
be used.
(1) Position drive belt over all pulleys except
water pump pulley.
(2) Attach a 1/2 inch ratchet to tensioner.
(3) Rotate ratchet and belt tensioner clockwise.
Place belt over water pump pulley. Let tensioner
rotate back into place. Remove ratchet. Be sure belt
is properly seated on all pulleys.

--I love this website. On the weekend I changed my waterpump, t-stat, and serpentine belt as well as flushed out my entire cooling system. I had problems with the petcock but a new piece from napa works well. Thanks everybody for your advice and help. Truck is running perfectly and back on the road thanks to everyone here. Keep rollin'
--The waterpump was new from Napa (I hope it lasts). Cost about the same as a rebuilt. The t-stat was expensive but appears to be working well and the petcock is a good idea and is only a few bucks.
--If you are replacing water pump no need to drain coolant. 90% of coolant will come out once pump is removed"


Like I said, I did not write this but will try to figure out who did.

Dr.Dizzle

Bark,

I am glad to hear the information in that post worked for you. I was informed by a Valvoline representative that CarQuest carries Zerex G-05 coolant in addition to NAPA. If the product is not on the shelves, a store representative can order it for you.

Hodge

x2. For no more than a water pump costs, and the ease of changing it, you should replace it before leaving.

nvr-enuf

Thanks everyone - I delayed my trip by a day. Just got done installing a new water pump and thermostat. Now the drive belt which my truck does not have a visual installation.

Regarding coolant - I typically ran long distance semi coolant that I found - it is Hoat certified / brand. I am going with prestone long lasting that is meant for all engines. A friend who drives truck for a living suggested to check the PH level when I come back from FL - stated the reason why coolant eats / corrodes the cylinder liners is due to the acidity / PH level of the coolant. Stated local shop can check it with a strip and add if need be.

Thanks again.
Scott

Colo_River_Ram

Here you go:



PM sent

Bark

Thanks. I was surprised that NAPA didnt charge an arm and a leg for it expecially since the place I got it from in CA had it stashed in the back instead of out front.

johnh

that is the best belt diagram i have seen , I'm going ti print it out for future reference..........by the way, I'm still on my original water pump at 250,000 miles.............

rattlerbob5.9

Just so you know - your truck/cummins does not have cylinder liners (wet or dry sleeves) the pistons are installed directly into the block.