akeithbrown

1999 24-valve 5-speed.

Starting this morning my clutch is working correctly sometimes and sometimes not. When not working transmission acts like clutch is not disengaging fully, also notice a different feel to clutch pedal. Could this be a low clutch/hydraulic fluid problem or a bad master clyinder for clutch. I assuming the clutch is hydraulic.

Any pointers? Add fluid, replace clutch master cylnder, etc. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Mexstan

I don't know for your model of truck but will give some general advice. First, check the fluid level on the master cylinder. If it is low then follow the line to the slave cylinder and look for leaks. If any leaks found then obviously fix them. After that, bleed the system. If you have to bleed the system i would suggest that at the same time you flush the lines with new brake fluid.
An intermittant clutch on a hydraulic system suggests to me three possibilities;
1. Air in the system
2. A bad master cylinder
3. Low brake fluid.

Sorry I can't be of specific help.

akeithbrown

Thanks for the advice, can I get some clarification. Based on what you state then the hydraulic clutch system works/utilizes the truck's brake fluid system? Are you referring to the brake system master cylinder when you mentioned "bad master cylinder"? Is there also a slave master cylinder for the clutch, seperate from brake master clyinder? My brakes seem okay so would that indicate that brake master cylinder is okay?

I replaced a clutch slave-cylinder on a Honda a long time ago and that's the limit of my experience with hydraulic clutchs.

Mexstan

The hydraulic system for a clutch is a totally independent system to the hydraulic system as used on brakes. Same idea, but different components and fluid. There is a clutch master just as there is a brake master cylinder. There is one clutch slave cylinder to a brake systems four slave cylinders. The brakes and clutch each have their own reservoir for the fluid.
Typically, if you look on the firewall from the engine side you will see two master cylinders. The position is the same as the pedals, brakes on the right and clutch on the left.
Does this help?

akeithbrown

Now that makes sense and helps imensely, thanks. With that said I can probably locate components and check/trouble-shoot.

infidel

Sounds to me like your throwout bearing is getting ready to go and hanging up. Might want to think about upgrading your clutch at the same time.

akeithbrown

Would there be any noise or other symptoms if the problem is the throwout bearing? I'm not getting any unusual noise in/from the transmission.

infidel

Not always, just a clutch that doesn't disengage. What happens many times is that it can still spin freely and make no noise but the ID is worn and it can get jammed on cockeyed, then it won't spin. Even though the clutch isn't contacting the flywheel rotation is being transferred though the bearing.
It's not unusual at all for the stock t.o. bearing to give out long before the clutch.

Hopefully you just have a slave cylinder/line problem, the bearing is just another option. The slave, line and clutch master cylinder are unfortunately one dealer only part with no bleed screw.

If you pump the clutch pedal will it disengage, feel like pressure is building?

akeithbrown

Thanks for the help and knowledge. I checked the reservoir on the master cylinder and the fluid level is okay, full. I think that I have a "hydraulic" problem. If I only keep the clutch depressed for a short period of time everything is okay. But when I hold the clutch in for a long period of time, like at a traffic light, the clutch will start engaging and I can feel pressure letting off the pedal. I can release the clutch pedal and after a few moments the clutch will then work normally.

My uneducated guess is a slave cylinder? If the slave cylinder doesn't have a bleed screw then how do I get the air out of the line?

Mexstan

If the clutch is starting to engage after holding it down for a long period my guess is that it is an internal leak in the master cylinder. If it was a slave cylinder leaking the only place for the fluid to go would be on the ground and you would also see it with a lowered level on the clutch master cylinder.
Suggest that you get a rebuilt master cylinder installed.

Hannibal

The clutch master/slave cylinder with line comes as a unit pre-charged and ready to install. It's a very easy repair. The unit cost $265 when I had to replace it on my '98 5psd. But it was so simple to replace, I didn't complain. Half hour if you're quick and an hour if you have to survey each step. This will cure your problem...