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Clutch Master/Slave Install

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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 03:30 PM
  #1  
AllPlay's Avatar
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From: South Arkansas
Clutch Master/Slave Install

I'm looking for instructions and tips on how to install a new complete clutch master and slave cylinder.

Thanks for the help.
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #2  
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From: Kenai Alaska
I have never done it but I had some notes from other posts that I had saved. Here is a link to one of them.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...clutch+replace

These were some other notes I had copied:
“”Yes, it is a two piece unit. No, it doesn't have to be bled. Install the slave, install the master, connect the two lines, pump the pedal a few times and you're done. The hardest part will be the electronic sensor on the clutch pedal.

I also used a South Bend unit. The main thing to remember is the master is clocked where it goes into the firewall. I did mine without wearing my glasses and nearly drove myself nuts till I got my glasses and realized it is a clocked fit.

If you buy the slave and master cylinder from DC, they come with new connecting line and have a quick connect fitting. The entire assembly when installed requires no bleeding.
if u buy from dodge it will come already to go no bleeding involed. my peddle felt a little different a first, but settled out after a couple of runs around town. hope it helps””

This is from an 03 service book:
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick disconnect
at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 20).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line
to the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.
(5) Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires
(Fig. 21).
(8) Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin.
(9) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding
the to the dash panel.
(11) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and connecting
lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinders and connecting line in vehicle
engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic
line against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
diameter of the master cylinder push rod eye.
(3) Install clutch master cylinder on dash panel
and tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N·m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
(5) Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch
wires.
(6) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
(7) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Install slave cylinder and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
(10) Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts to 23
N·m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) If new clutch linkage is being installed, connect
the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is connected
to the slave cylinder, it should never be disconnected.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Operate linkage several times to verify proper

Most of this info is for 2000 or up trucks. Hope some of this helps.
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 07:01 AM
  #3  
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From: South Arkansas
Thanks Bark for the info. The part came in and had very good instructions with very detailed pictures. In total it took around 45min. to install. When I get time I will scan the instructions and list them for anybody that does this in the future.

When I installed the clutch awhile back I also resurfaced the flywheel and I guess I went to far. The truck shifts easier but still grinds between gears. Besides pulling the transmission is there anything else that can help this issue?
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 11:17 PM
  #4  
Bark's Avatar
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From: Kenai Alaska
Super!!! I will be looking forward to your list. Can you post where and what brand parts you got? Mine hasnt gone out yet but it would sure be nice to know what works.
You may want to make a new post about the resurfaced flywheel and grinding gears to see what others have to say about it.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:47 PM
  #5  
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Originally Posted by AllPlay
Thanks Bark for the info. The part came in and had very good instructions with very detailed pictures. In total it took around 45min. to install. When I get time I will scan the instructions and list them for anybody that does this in the future.

When I installed the clutch awhile back I also resurfaced the flywheel and I guess I went to far. The truck shifts easier but still grinds between gears. Besides pulling the transmission is there anything else that can help this issue?
My master came in with no instructions. Did you ever have a chance to scan yours in?
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