Can't say about the 5600, but R&R on my 4500 was a major PITA. I borrowed a trans jack - and DARN glad I did. It would be really tough to do it otherwise. The 4500 weighed ~250 w/o the transfer case (which I'd yanked so many times I could almost do it blindfolded). Think the 5600 weighs ~350 lb alone, so wouldn't even attempt it w/o a decent tranny jack. You will need a jack that has fore/aft & L/R adjustments, else you will never get the tranny back in, IMHO. The trans & engine are installed in the frame at the factory as a unit. The body is dropped onto the frame. ABSOLUTELY ZERO thought was given to facilitating later replacement. Trying to get the tranny to go back in, line up the clutch/splines, and fit the shift tower back through the floor took longer than rebuilding my tranmission (literally!). There is no room to work, and a really tight fit around the shift tower. You will also need to support the engine as well, and raise/lower it as r'qrd to mate back to the transm. Would be easier on a high-lift I presume, but I did it in my garage the hard way. Also, you will need to jack the truck up several inches min in order to clear the trans from under the truck (on the jack). Mine wouldn't come out while on the jack (too tall for frame rails), so just manhandled it off the jack - which would be even harder w/the 5600. Don't know what the 241 cases weigh now, but used to be ~ 80 lbs - so add that to the 5600 if you try to R&R as a unit. Resintalling was an exercise in patience, perserverance, and pain (mostly). Never could get the trans to go back in exactly right, and the jack was too cumbersome for maneuvering, so finally crawled under the thing, and just benchpressed the POS back in. Keep in mind, if the input splines don't line up with the clutch, you will have to keep pulling the trans out to turn the shaft slightly, or as I did, stick in 4th (direct,on 4500), and turn the output shaft w/one hand while pushing the trans forward, until the splines line up and go in. DO NOT tighten bolts in bellhousing until splines align fully, or something will break. Sorry, can't give more details on the 5600, as I have only done the 4500. BTW - the flywheel bolts are ONE TIME USE/stretch-to-yield types, according to Cummins/Dodge. May want to acquire them before your R&R, as they are metric, short, grade 12.9 (4500 anyway). Had to order mine from Cummins/Indiana. Pick up a clutch alignment dowel/tool if you haven't already. Be sure to clean crank hub before installing flywheel (photo attached), or you'll have runout problems, if dirty.
Things may be different on the 5600, so maybe someone else has more info.
Just my .02...
Good luck!
-Scott