Check Engine Light!
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
AutoZone told me that they don't have a scanner for my truck. It's New Mexico after all! I hate to take it to the dealer because of the insuing sexual assault! This one has me baffles for sure. I will try to find the voltage in wire from the schematics and stick a voltmeter on it when it's doing it's thing.......
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,053
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Well, the truck was charging sometimes, the needle would all of the sudden snap back up to it's normal position, then it quits charging, and the needle falls back to 12 volts, then lower, then my radio quits and I know it's only a matter of time before the fuel cutoff soleniod closes. I had to limp her home. Interestingly the air conditioning compressor stayed engaged. I checked the CPS connections, battery connections, etc. and can't see anything obvious. I think the computer might be dying.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Latest in the saga...
I was looking at the Diesel Schematic and notices that the Water sensor is connected to the CPS, and my light has been on for quite a while, despite replacing the sensor on the fuel filter.
Does anyone have the ohm values for each wire of the Hall Effect (CPS)? I'm thinking at least one wire is dead.
Thanks,
Mark
I was looking at the Diesel Schematic and notices that the Water sensor is connected to the CPS, and my light has been on for quite a while, despite replacing the sensor on the fuel filter.
Does anyone have the ohm values for each wire of the Hall Effect (CPS)? I'm thinking at least one wire is dead.
Thanks,
Mark
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,053
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Got it. I will check it with the engine running to see if there is any output.
I have been driving around on an overnight charge trying to keep the AMPs down like "Apollo 13"! That is, no air, no radio, hand signals, no radar detector, nothing! It's still better than driving around in the spare car!
I have been driving around on an overnight charge trying to keep the AMPs down like "Apollo 13"! That is, no air, no radio, hand signals, no radar detector, nothing! It's still better than driving around in the spare car!
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,053
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
I got the codes pulled by a local shop (for 5 bucks!) and it threw three:
11
41
47
This does not really help me becausemy air and cruise are working. I swapped relays, still no charge. If I pull the block off the back of the alternator and grounded one of the field wires and hooked the other to the battery and it charges. If I hook the stuff back up it chages but only for a min or so.
I can't tell if it's intermittent brush issues or the PCM regualtor. I guess I'm pulling the Alt. and getting it checked.......
I'll do the external regulator workaround if the alt is OK.
Am I missing anything?????
11
41
47
This does not really help me becausemy air and cruise are working. I swapped relays, still no charge. If I pull the block off the back of the alternator and grounded one of the field wires and hooked the other to the battery and it charges. If I hook the stuff back up it chages but only for a min or so.
I can't tell if it's intermittent brush issues or the PCM regualtor. I guess I'm pulling the Alt. and getting it checked.......
I'll do the external regulator workaround if the alt is OK.
Am I missing anything?????
Originally posted by mhuppertz
I got the codes pulled by a local shop (for 5 bucks!) and it threw three:
11
41
47
I got the codes pulled by a local shop (for 5 bucks!) and it threw three:
11
41
47
11 (if the same as 12)= means the battery was disconnected in the last 50 key on cycles.
41= Generator field not switching properly; Open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit.
47= Charging system voltage too low; batt voltage sense input below target. Also no sigificant change detected in battery voltage during active generator output circuit.
Mark, I think your problem may be a bad connection at the PCM. Unplug the PCM and look at the pins and terminal ends, if you see any grungy ones clean them. Sometimes just disconnecting and reconnecting a plug will clean off the oxidation and give you a good connection.
Since the alt. charges when you full-field it, it's not the problem.
Since the alt. charges when you full-field it, it's not the problem.



