cam code, crank code tried everything
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cam code, crank code tried everything
First off this is a conversion truck. 03 motor. I have the infamous p0341 cam sensor code. I changed the sensor, changed the engine wiring harness with a brand new one, swaped the computer with another truck. still have code. Also took the front cover off and checked the cam gear. Everything is tight and looks good. Now I am getting a p0366 crank code every once in a while. Ordered another crank sensor. I dont know what to try next.
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With those kind of issues , you need a pro-scanner & scope .
You mention tried [ what ] , checked [ how ] .
Only replace what tests bad , unless your trying to stimulate the economy .
You mention tried [ what ] , checked [ how ] .
Only replace what tests bad , unless your trying to stimulate the economy .
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I will check and clean all the grounds, that could be an issue. I checked the computer by pulling on off a buddies truck with the same year engine and got the same code with his computer. Tried the sensor because thats what the aldata sheets recommended first and the sensor from CUmmins is only $28.00 dealer cost, but when I ohmed the pins on the sensor they ohmed good by the specs on alldata and ohmed the same as a new one. I changed the harness because I was getting some periodic codes with the coolant sensor and the air condition compressor and I had already untaped the harness and could not find a short. I also ohmed every wire back to the c1 plug. I thought maybe it was a problem with vibration in the plug so I repalced the harness.
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For any sensor that senses movement / motion [ not on-off ] , you need a scope to check , an Ohm check is a static [ non-movement ] check , as the action part of a sensor moves , it can have glitches that no other meter can see [ the main difference between the common 3 electrical testing meters is speed , the scope is the fastest and give a bar graph , not allowing any small glitch to be missed ] .
The next thing I would do is get a pin-out chart for the computer , then use special back-probing tools to see if there are some issues with the signals coming into the computer , that way you can see the problem is either outside computer [ harness , sensor maybe an RF from alternator going into sensor ] or in the computer .
The next thing I would do is get a pin-out chart for the computer , then use special back-probing tools to see if there are some issues with the signals coming into the computer , that way you can see the problem is either outside computer [ harness , sensor maybe an RF from alternator going into sensor ] or in the computer .
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I will check that. Going to Beans and putting it on a scanner while on the dyno. But I did unhook the alternator from the computer and ran the truck and still got the code, but I did not unhook the hot wire that connects with the batteries. I guess it could send RF back through that wire and in the computer. I will unhook the alternator completely tomorrow and try that. If that doesnt work I will find a o-scope and check the wires from the cam sensor and see what the wave form looks like. I guess I really need to see what the waveform looks like on a truck with not problems first, but my guess is that there will be spikes in the wave if there is interference.
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#8
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Crawl up under the truck and look at the A/C compressor. There's a wiring harness running right next to the compressor, make sure it's not chaffing and shorting against the housing.
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One of the common issues I run into with engine conversions is the continued use of the original vehicle manufacturer's alternator, and jury rigged field wiring from the Dodge ECM. If you have used the Ford alternator, do not tap into or use the Dodge/Cummins alternator control wiring, as that runs at lower voltage and can spike the ECM and give you the codes you are seeing.
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One of the common issues I run into with engine conversions is the continued use of the original vehicle manufacturer's alternator, and jury rigged field wiring from the Dodge ECM. If you have used the Ford alternator, do not tap into or use the Dodge/Cummins alternator control wiring, as that runs at lower voltage and can spike the ECM and give you the codes you are seeing.
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