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BRAKES please help newbie

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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 09:13 AM
  #16  
Dr. Evil's Avatar
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From: The Great White North
I also think youll have to replace the seal if you lost oil.....how "black" was the oil?...that doesnt sound very good. When the last time you changed the gear oil in the diff?
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 09:42 AM
  #17  
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From: Damascus Oregon
I bought my truck on the 15th of January and so I haven't changed any of the gear oils or lubes. I'm about due for an oil change so I can probably change the gear oil then what should i use?
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #18  
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From: The Great White North
Do think you need anything special in the front....good ol 80W90

I run syn in the rear diff
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 10:03 AM
  #19  
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by TIMMY22
I would put a new axle seal in there now.
Likely your seal is just fine but oil that got past it and is trapped in the axle tube and will continue to leak out for up to 500 miles. Wait and see if leaks after that before replacing the seal. To avoid oil getting past the seal next time jack the side you are working on high so the oil goes to the other side. Also stuff rags under the u-joint so it remains in the stock position when the bearing is off. Allowing the axle to sag elongates the seal and allows oil to get by.
Guaranteed way to make the axle seal leak is to overfill the differential.
Manufacturer's recommended level is 3/4" below the bottom of the fill hole.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 10:59 AM
  #20  
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From: The Great White North
That is a great tip...I stuck a litte block of wood under the stub shaft to support it.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:11 PM
  #21  
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From: Damascus Oregon
Ok so i've got my rotors, calipers and hubs on and bled. I used an air wrench and sucked down the lug nuts on tight to my wheels and when i rotate the wheel the rotor is still loose can anyone help
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:12 PM
  #22  
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From: Damascus Oregon
forgot to add that I also have the four 12 point bolts on the back that go into the main bearing tight with a cheater wrench I don't know what else to do
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 06:09 PM
  #23  
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From: Dallas, TX
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
That is a great tip...I stuck a litte block of wood under the stub shaft to support it.

Im in the middle of a rotor change and Im not real sure what your talking about. can you post pictures so I can see this seal that yall are talking about?
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 10:50 PM
  #24  
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From: Dallas, TX
I got it...it just took alot of massaging with a large hammer.

now how do i get the brake pads out?
do i have to loosen the star nut on the back of the piston bracket?
i dont see how else to get the pad out.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 03:44 PM
  #25  
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From: Tenn.
Does this help?

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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 11:51 PM
  #26  
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From: Dallas, TX
Originally Posted by Clunk
Does this help?



yeah i got it figured out. ive done brakes many times before but none have been this crazy. the caliper bracket has to come off the rotor(of course) and then you have to separate the piston from the adapter plate.

it didnt go anything like the picture above but it was easy ..i just had to get a T-45 bit that I didnt have

thanks for the help
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