I've never had to bleed the front when just changing cylinders but you may as well bleed them in order to flush out old fluid while you're at it.
I've been running the larger cylinders for over three years now, if it's going to cause a problem it's taking it's sweet time.
If the engineers had it figured right at the beginning then why did they switch to the Dodge size 3500 cylinders on 2500s in '97?

 

You have to remember that the engineers (99 times out of 100) want to design things that work well and CAN be serviced easily. I'm a mechanical engineer and I think about these things all the time. However, the final decision almost always comes down to cost. They're forced to do things that might seem stupid, and usually are stupid, because someone higher up needs to keep a certain profit margin in place. Typically if the final decisions were left to the engineers more people would be happy all around. It's like having an interior designer make the decisions on what type of air conditioning system to use in a building, just doesn't make any kind of sense.

Just my thoughts...

 

The cylinders I installed were 1 1/16" (Chevy 1 ton). What cylinders are you using that are 1 3/16"? I bearly had room for the Chevy 1 ton cylinders and couldn't imagine installing something bigger.

BTW: What adjustment, if any, do I need do. As I said, I did the forward/reverse thing.

 

From what I have learned here on DTR (and echoed on TDR), Dodge rear "self" adjusting brakes don't self-adjust reliably for most any CTD owners.
Mine don't reliably tighten up by backing up and repeatedly jabbing the brakes sharply either.
I find the rear brakes work SO much better if each time you change oil, crawl under there and tighten up the adjusters manually. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to tighten mine a week ago when I changed my oil/filter and I definitely miss the improved braking.

Keith

 

Are you saying to adjust them until there is no more adjustment left? Sorry, never had to deal with drum brakes before. I did have them on my boat trailer, but that was the first thing to go ... discs on two axles!

 

GMC 1 ton = 30mm = 1.18"
Dodge 1 ton = 27mm = 1.06"
Dodge pre '97 2500 = 24mm = .94"

The difference in stopping power between 30mm and 27mm is 23%

No. Jack the rear and while spinning the tire click the brake star wheel upward till the shoes just start to rub, you're done.

 

If that's the case then the Carquest number, SWC1014, is wrong. The cylinders I got are 1 1/16". Oh well!

 

I spoke with Carquest and the correct Carquest number is: SWC1025. That number cross references to the Napa number. Guess I should have checked before purchasing the SWC1014's ... shame on me!

The Carquest number for the original cylinders is EW155380. What the hell do I have on my truck? Should I be concerned?

 

Ok, a little heads up!

On my 99, the stock cylinder is only 15/16", which is 23.81mm. I confirmed this with several autoparts stores online and off. So I wasn't imagining my improved braking. I'll take a look at the parts that came off tonight. I recall seeing the size stamped on the side of the cylinder.

Hope this was of help!

 

Wildbill: I don't have no stinkin GM part on my truck. I have Car Quest rear Brake Cylinders - just so happens they will also fit a 1 ton GM. They work real good, and according to the people I talk to, the rebuilders of these parts have a pretty good reputation. I am also going to replace the front rotors with the Car Quest rebuilds in the next few weeks. Ah, Spring. House cleaning time. Got a whole list of maintenance items to do.

John (DH)

 

According to www.napaonline.com your stock cylinder is 1-1/16" = 1.06 =27mm, p/n 4637290

The 23.81mm cylinders were only used on 2500s prior to '97

 

I will check the parts when I get home, but I do recall my son mentioning the difference in size ... we'll see.

 

Ok, checked them and they are 15/16". I guess they still used them after '97. I notice the difference, which is good. She no longer pulls to the left ... must have been going for a couple of months! I'll do the final adjustments this weekend.

 

Nope, just that you are going to have to be the "self" in the self-adjusting part of your brakes now.
I just have to crank them a little closer each time I have the opportunity to be under there.
The way I do it, I tighten the adjusters a little bit while the rears are up off the ground until they begin to drag pretty well. Then I stomp the pedal a few times which will reposition the shoes so they won't drag. Initially, you may have to repeat this until they are ALMOST continuously dragging. Then, once you get it on the road and make a few REAL test stops, they won't drag at all!
It's not real scientific but any reduction in the slop that grows with pad wear is a help. You'll definitely feel the difference in your brake pedal. After you get the feel for how many clicks is enough, it will become second nature when servicing your baby...

I do wish the self adjuster ratchet mechanism worked better than they do but I can live with what I have.

Keith

 

Ok, adjusted the drums yesterday and what a difference! I even think just regular adjustment would make a great difference. The pedal feels tight!