I want to check my pressure prefilter, but I have to figure out how to do that. The last time I changed my fuel filter, I noticed my lift pump cavatating. That leads me to believe that something is plugged in my fuel tank and would require the fix action Alpineram suggested.

What is the best way to dispose of diesel fuel. My tank is full.

What are the odds of lift pump being bad that I replaced after all of this happened? It was new from Napa.

Keep the idea machines running....

TIA,

Joe

 

Buy an AirDog NOW!
BTW I think your VP44 is fine. Do not let the presure get below 5 psi though.

 

How would an Air Dog help me with frozen fuel? What makes the Air Dog different than a fass, a walbro system, or any other pusher pump system?

TIA,

Joe

 

I agree with Socalmat. An Air Dog has 1/2" dia fuel line and all fittings with no hose clamps, much sturdier bracket and does not require drilling the frame. Let alone the warranty issues I have had with FASS. Air Dog just recently dropped their prices to about the same as FASS too.
BTW, Most reputable injection shops will tell you that as long as you still have positive pressure your vp44 will be fine. It's when you go negitive that the pump
has to work too hard and does not get enough lubrication.
I have seen brand new lift pumps go bad within a week so if it were me, I would drop the tank, clean it out and install the Air Dog while I had the tank down. It makes it easier to get to the fuel lines. Good luck.

 

Just wanted to say thanks who posted.

Problem ended up being two fold. First, when I fill up the truck with ULS Fuel, my fuel gauge isolator failed. The reading became erratic. Second, when I swapped the lift pump, the new lift pump I carried as a spare was bad. I confirmed my fixes with a stand alone mechanical test gauge and I am reading 15 psi at idle . I just have to replace my isolator and I am totally good to go!!


Thanks again,

Joe

 

Seriously...i cant count how many isolators i have seen cause issues with gauges. I dont run one personaly and just use a needle valve to control shock to the gauge...and its a cutoff as well.

 

Thank you very much for convincing me to not waste my money on an isolater.

Do you turn the needle-valve almost completely OFF??

What prevents the valve from vibrating out of adjustment??

Thanks.

 

Mine is cracked open between 1/16 and 1/8 turn. Close it all the way off, have someone watch the gauge, slowly open it up and as soon as you see pressure you're good. Over time my valve may loosen up some. If it does I will apply a little more pressure to the retaining nut. Haven't had to do that yet, but I figure its good to have a plan.

Glad to hear you got the problem fixed.

 

I got my just cracked....(and i mean cracked!) open. My valve is very tight.....it leaves imprints on my fingers after adjustment for about 2 mins! haha...SO i dont worry about that. With it full open...the gauge would buzz and needle would slightly vibrate.........I need to get a snubber........but this works fine.....

 

After you have the valve adjusted where you want it tighten the packing nut under the handle.