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97 Dodge Cummins diesel 3500 A/T Rebuilt Transmission Wont Lockup Need Help

Old Aug 5, 2005 | 03:56 PM
  #1  
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From: California
97 Dodge Cummins diesel 3500 A/T Rebuilt Transmission Wont Lockup Need Help PLEASE!

Hello

I have a 97 Dodge Cummins diesel 3500 A/T I installed a lockup switch before I had it rebuilt and it work fine until it started to slip after 6 months.

So I decided to have the tranny rebuilt with a triple disc billet torque converter. I also replaced all the solenoids and upgrade the pan and replace the lockup value line pressure value.

Now I have all my gears except lockup even with the switch it wont lockup. I check all plugs and the solenoids and the tranny been taken out 3 time to recheck everything inside found no broken part or shavings. All solenoids were bench tested and work. The torque converter was take apart to see inside and everything looks fine.

Any ideas on what doing this or past experience help would be great.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 02:27 AM
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come on someone must of had this happen to them.

All im asking is for help i hate having my truck being broken.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:13 AM
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Check the little 3 prong plug that is right above the shift lever pointing down. It is a flat plug. The little plastic locking tab broke off when I had mine out. the little tab fell into the receptical and it wouldnt allow the plug to plug in correctly. You may have to remove the little gasket to if it wont go back in right. Be sure to check even if it looks like its in. Mine looked fine till the shop pulled it apart.. Good luck..
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 01:42 PM
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xxqme, I don't have an answer for you, but I have a comment in general for all those who wish to upgrade their automatics. Please don't take this personally, I don't mean to dump on you in particular.

I have said this before and it bears repeating. I have seen many, many posts on this forum related to serious problems after owners have changed transmission parts piecemeal. Shift points, OD, stall speed, downshift, lockup, etc are not right. On the other hand, few owners who buy fully re-engineered and upgraded transmissions have problems because the assembly is designed to work as an integrated whole, is matched to the engine, and is dyno tested before shipment. Yes it costs more, but what is the price of frustration and yanking the tranny several times? Or being stranded away from home? The right transmission installed by experienced mechanics is worth the cost.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 04:16 PM
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thank guys for your replys

at least i know there 2 people out there that help others.

again thank you
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 04:31 PM
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Lary Ellis (Top)'s Avatar
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Originally posted by xxxqme


at least i know there 2 people out there that help others.
That comment is arrogant, ignorant and un-called for. A simple search of the forum will reveal that it's entire format is built around helping people.

My guess is you are frustrated that you only received a few replies, and you are too impatient to give people time to read your post. If you are wanting people to Help you, I might suggest you check your attitude at the door

Instead of insulting everyone here why don't you try using the "search" button, it will reveal hundreds of posts from people with similar problems and possibly help you fix yours.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 06:53 PM
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Wait a minute if 2 people took the time to reply to my problem. I feel that I own them a thank you for stepping to the plate first. Yes you are right im VEEEERy frustrated about my truck being broken.

Also I did use the search button and read and read some more and nothing similar to my problem. Believe me if there is something I know when some ask about it ill reply with a thought or answer.

I meant no disrespect by it.

And For you Lary Ellis (Top) your remark "comment is arrogant, ignorant and un-called for" at lease I know now there people actually here reading the forums. Maybe it me but it seems so quite around here. All i ways doing is looking for help.
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 10:48 AM
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xxxqme,
I suspect that you have a problem in your added on manual lock-up switch and circuitry. Remove the switch, associated wiring, and put everything back to OEM circuitry and see if that doesn't solve the problem.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 07:28 PM
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have a shop road test to see if the tcc seloniod is working properly mine was bad after the rebuild it did the same thing, a new overdrive and tcc solnoid block solved it

Chris
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 09:53 PM
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Don't worry XXX, if you would have put "dealership" in your post it would have been ok to slam all day long!

I read the post, but as soon as I saw "switch" I stopped reading. Returning things to "stock" is an excellent place to begin. From there I would want to see a scan tool reading and drive it to see if the PCM is actually "commanding" lock up. From there I would most likely actuate the solenoids and monitor the voltage back at the PCM. If all that checked out that leaves a couple different avenues. One I would try is to put a "T" in one of the cooler lines, and monitor the pressure while driving with a manual psi gauge. On lock up I believe you want (oh memory, don't fail me now!!) a 60 psi increase. If there is no increase, or very little increase, and you've determined the solenoids are indeed functioning, you are looking at a seal issue. On a stock trans I would be thinking pump, converter, input shaft, input shaft seals.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 05:12 AM
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Can you take a DVOM to the pin that goes to the switch? it should show voltage when you are in a situation you want to have lockup. If not- check wiring. If yes, check the ground of the lockup switch. If the switch has voltage and proper ground, measure resistance across the switch in both positions- it should be open on one and almost 0 ohms on the other.

If all that's ok I'd suspect a hydraulic problem.

HTH

AlpineRAM
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