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'96 Dodge 12v Died and won't start

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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 03:48 PM
  #1  
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'96 Dodge 12v Died and won't start

Hi,

I have a '96 ram with 188k that I've had no problems with for the past few years of ownership. Slowly over the past month I've started modifying it (prior nothing had been done to the motor). I first bought gauges, BHAF, 5" exhaust and finally last night put in a #100 fuel plate. The truck started fine, ran about a mile and as my foot got a bit heavy sputtered and died. No matter what I do it won't start. Fuel pressure looks "normal" fuel shut off solenoid works, and no new leaks or strange puddles under the truck. For the life of me I can't figure out whats wrong. Also it looks to be pouring vaporized fuel out of the exhaust. I know diesels don't work the same as gas engines but it felt as if it were flooded. Out of curiosity I unplugged the fuel solenoid and it seemed to clear up the haze from the exhaust, so it seems I can say its getting fuel in the cylinders that's not burning, just getting pushing out through the exhaust... Since then I've not been able to start my truck. The starter turns the engine over but doesn't even try to fire. This doesn't make sense from what I know of diesels. Any help is really appreciated!
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 04:03 PM
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From: Kerrville eastern new mexico, west texas
not sure about a 12v but is their a power wire to the injector pump
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rich
not sure about a 12v but is their a power wire to the injector pump
No. It's mechanical.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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From: Kerrville eastern new mexico, west texas
yea i know but even mechanicals have a power wire to a fuel solenoid which could be the shut off one not sure. could you have put the plate in wrong or something came loose
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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I thought the same thing so took it back apart after it died and re-checked everything. I marked the position when I took it out so that the new went in exactly the same. It started idled and drove like normal for about a mile before dying. Hasn't started since.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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You didn't happen to re-time it when you were working on it, did you?

Almost sounds like timing slipped.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 04:43 PM
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I didn't re-time it when I was working on it. If the timing had slipped when i was accelerating with the load on the motor could it have slipped enough to stall and not re-start? If so does this mean new motor time for me, or just get it re-timed?
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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From: Kerrville eastern new mexico, west texas
retime if it is out
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 06:22 AM
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From: Central Mexico.
Seems to me that I remember a thread about a similar problem a long time ago and the problem was a corroded wire attached to the fuel shut off solenoid.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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To eliminate the fuel shutoff solenoid as a problem, disconnect the fuel solenoid connector and hold up on the plunger while someone cranks the starter. If it starts that is your problem, if it doesn't start look elsewhere.

There are 3 wires to the fuel solenoid: (1.) A 12v Pull coil signal from the starter relay in PDC and (2.) a 12v volt Hold coil signal from the ignition switch thru the Neutral safety switch and (3.) a GND for both coils....that's it. By "PULL"ling up on the plunger and "HOLD"ing it up you have eliminate the potential signal to the fuel solenoid that could be bad. You have replaced the electrical functions with mechanical functions. If truck still don't start it is not the fuel solenoid unless the linkage is binding on the plunger. Remove the fuel solenoid and clean and lube the plunger will fix most fuel solenoid problems.

Also, the fuel relay on the firewall is used to fire the Pull circuit of the fuel solenoid. The blue fusable link off the drivers side battery supplies 12v to the fuel relay to fire the Pull circuit.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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It's not all that unusual after jacking up the hp on a 12 valve to slip the timing the first time you use the new hp.
More hp = more load on the injection pump which can slip the timing gear.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 11:41 AM
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From: Ahwahnee, Ca
Originally Posted by infidel
It's not all that unusual after jacking up the hp on a 12 valve to slip the timing the first time you use the new hp.
More hp = more load on the injection pump which can slip the timing gear.
I've got a #10 plate that I have not installed yet on my 97 12v. I've wondered should I do the timing along with the plate install or shortly after? If I do them both at the same time (Plate & timing to 16) it seems I won't know what may have caused a problem like this due to both being done simultaneously.

Would you recommend just doing plate and timing together? I still need to get the timing tools....ugh...no money for it.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 12:04 PM
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I prefer to do each mod one at a time just so you know the effect each has had.
I would do the timing first, but that's just me.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 12:42 PM
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From: Ahwahnee, Ca
Originally Posted by infidel
I prefer to do each mod one at a time just so you know the effect each has had.
I would do the timing first, but that's just me.
Makes sense to do one at a time. I'd like to change the timing to hopefully get better MPG anyhow but I need to buy tools first. I've read lots of posts on setting timimg, installing plate and adding 3k GSK and I'm a little afraid to screw something up but I'm going to try it anyway. I'll add the 3k GSK last.

I'm just looking for better towing performace hauling horses and hay especially climbing up into the mountains where I live out of the flatlands. I hate having to use 3rd gear pulling a load up the hills.

Thanks for your help Bill.
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