I'm in the middle of the install right now, and the piers instructions have a little to be desired. Have been reading previous posts got most of it, just a few things I have encountered on the first set of springs.

1) When I went to remove the governer spring adjusting nut (after I marked and measured), I noticed the nut was loose. I could move it by hand. I think I felt one soft click at the most while removing. Should this nut be tighter than this? Currently I have the new springs in (one set) and the nut can be wiggled by hand, but does not back out because it comes to one of the stops (the things that click I guess).

2) Of course the paint mark came right off the minute I started handling it, but I still have my measurement to get it back to the original location (which I am worried it is to loose).

3) I removed the inner springs, the inner spring seat, and what I think is a shim. The new piers seat is the size of the old seat and shim combined. But I also noticed 2 thin shims or washers the size of the larger spring (the one that piers says to leave in place). Is this a shim that I need to remove as well, or is it a seat for the larger spring and leave it alone?

4) When I do finally get it back together, can anybody give me any little tips for tuning it the springs (in case I have a problem). What I am looking for is something like "if it defuels at xxxx rpms then turn the springs in two clicks, or if it surges at idle, then turn them x amount of clicks, etc.

Thanks, I'm sitting here watching for an answer, Kevin

 

I'm not an expert (only done one set of springs - mine) but I will try to help.

1. When I did mine the nut was pretty "loose". I probably could of taken it off by hand. I think you are correct, the notches (clicks) and centrifugal force should keep everything together.

2. I didn't use any paint, only the measurement. Put it back together and it worked great! Only difference was my idle increased a little which was OK because it was too low before.

3. I removed everything from the inside springs. The springs, the seat and I had two shims on each side (thin washers). From what I understand if there are any shims under the largest spring you just leave them there. I didn't remove the big spring so I don't know what was under them.

4. Can't help with that. I put mine in as the directions said and everything worked great so I didn't need to adjust anything. The only thing I might have had to adjust was my idle but it was fine after the install.

Hope this helps but remember I have done a total of ONE SET of these. Mine was easy and works great!!! Good Luck!

 

Sidewinder, thanks.

Your information helped allot. I also found some info (a nice little addition to the piers instructions) http://www.flex.net/~triplem/new/govspring.htm by Relentless Diesel. It was very helpful. Especially the part at the very end where they recommend a preload on the springs of about .030"-.040". Thats what I set mine at both at .040".

The first spring set was at .030" and the second was at .070". I double and triple checked. I remember reading somewhere that someone had problems with how their ran after a 3k kit was installed and they found the preload out of whack as well. They adjusted both the same and all is well.

As far as the truck goes, man am I happy. The idle is down about 200 rpm's, but I'll adjust that after is cools back down. It's a little warm after getting up to 100mph's . There seems to be a little more at lower end as well, but most noticeable above 2000 rpms. To see that tach go past 3000 rpms is pretty cool. To feel it is even better. Did not push it to see how high it would go. I'll wait for a day when the pavement dry .

Anyways, very happy, a worthwhile mod at a reasonable price. The toughest part was getting that stamped nut back on the pump. Took me longer to get that on then it did to put everything back together. Thanks again, Kevin

 

Glad to hear it went well and you like it. It is a nice mod. Did you have trouble with the stamped nut because the shutdown lever was in the way ?

 

Yes, so I removed it, put the nut back on then the lever. Just had to be careful not to lose the little keyway on the shaft. After it was removed it went on first try. Before removal, I spent 40 mins trying to get it on!

Oh well, gave me a reason to have a beer and think about it for a few minutes. Kevin

 

Glad everything went well. Yea I had trouble with the nut too - forgot about that.
Both of my springs were set at about 0.065" originally so thats where I put the new ones. I noticed more power everwhere and the drivability was much better after the install and Oh Yea - the tranny even shifts better.

ENJOY!!

 

Idle is adjusted and rev's are smooth. Start up is fine as well. Very happy!. Now just a little paranoid about the .040 stud protrusion. I am paranoid I guess about the retaining nut being a little loose. Man, I always second guess this stuff after I'm done!

Someone tell me I am fine so I can sleep tonight. I need to remind myself that this is a setting that others have and all is well. The most common settings I have seen (in posts ) are about .050 to .070, or about 2 to 3 clicks past the first felt click. I guess everything gets tight due to centrifugal force pressing against the retaining nut. Thanks, Kevin

 

Just a side note:

I decided to do a little "playing" with the springs. Adjusted them another click and found some more power. The pedal is a little more responsive. It's a good throttle feeling, not to touchy. It was a little softer before the latest adjustment. Feels good now.

It feels like I have a little more lower end, but it still runs to 3000 rpms without defueling. Did not push it any further. I will know more when I do a little more driving. I did have to back the idle down about 100 rpm's. Currently adjusting nut is at .050 below the top of the post.

Hope this helps somebody else, Kevin