Yesterday while sitting at a light my engine began to stumble. It was missing like an injector wasnt firing. I pushed the go pedal and white smoke began to pour out the exhaust and it got worse untill the truck shut off completely. I started it back up and managed to limp off the road. I shut it off and did the key on-off 3 times to get the codes. (Only code was P1693) After about 3 minutes I turned the engine over and it fired up just like always and ran great. I drove home and tried to find a dealer that could tell me what that code meant. Then I came on here to find that it is just a companion code.

I didnt sleep well last night wondering what it could be. I woke this morning not knowing what to expect but the truck started on the first revolution and ran great all the way to work. By lunch time I was still curious and hungry so I took it down the street to get a bite to eat. At the 2nd light I came to it acted up again and I had to pull off the road... wait a few minutes then start it and go on my way.

Can someone please tell me what is going on before I take it to a dealer??? Thanks in advance!

 

Take it to Autozone and borrow their code reader, that's the only way to know for sure.

 

Actually, a DC dealer will have the best scanner - but Autozones will work in a pinch.

 

I went and rented a OBDII scanner from autozone and it did not show any other codes. Phox told me that we needed to go to a dodge dealer and have them scan it to retrieve the other codes that the ECM has stored. For more info read my thread "White smoke signals for help?" Is this what happens to you JIT? Has this happened to you Dr. Evil, Piper? This particular problem happened to me last week. My problem is that my P1693 code has gone away(due to reapeated clean start-ups). I have asked phox some additional questions(which can be read in thread), which may or may not apply, but I have not received any replies.

I am reluctant to take it in to a dealer, therefore i am awaiting a reply by any on being able to take it to another shop for diagnostical purposes.

 

Take it in to anyone of the places mentioned to get codes read asap. With those symptoms, it sure sounds like injection pump is dying. Do you have a gauge to monitor lift pump fuel pressure? When lift pump fails, it usually takes the injection pump with it soon afterwards.

 

Took it to the local Dodge dealer today and found out the parts Mgr is an Old friend of mine. He had his Cummins Tech take a look at my truck. They used the scan tool for 3min and he told me to replace my Transfer Pump ASAP! The tech said the best way to go is the new design that goes in the tank, but the easy way was to get an oe replacement from the local Diesel shop. (Southeast Power Systems) He also told me that my VP44 can still be damaged but the only way to tell is to first replace the Transfer or "Lift" Pump.

I left there and went to Southeast Power and purchased the OE replacement and a new Filter. Now I just need some tips & tricks on replacing the LP! Im sure the Search function will yield all the info I need!

I am keeping my hopes up that the VP44 is still in good shape!

 

Lift pump is fairly straightforward to replace, all the info will be in search function. A good(and cheap) upgrade is to get the Vulcan pump relocation kit, or Scotty Smart fuel system(to do away with restrictive banjo bolts and small fuel lines).

There is also FASS, or FASSII, but is probably overkill (and pricier) for your stock setup. These will all help to increase lift and injection pump life, as will fuel gauge to help monitor lift pump condition.

 

I put the new LP on after work Wed. Have had no problems since and put about 50 miles on it. It wasnt as bad as I thought it would be, especially since it was hard to see the darn thing. Let alone remove and replace it! Took me 45min and required the following tools...

13mm (or 1/2") for the three mounting stud/nuts
10mm for the bracket holding the rear fuel line.
17mm for the banjo bolts on the two fuel lines.
3/4" to bleed the injectors.

I also changed my fuel filter while I was in there!

 

Hopefully, you caught it in time and didnt damage your injector pump. Good call on not going for the intank pump - its NOT a good way to go, IMHO. Make sure you get an incab fuel pressure guage to keep this from happening again.

 

I doubt I will be having fuel pressure problems for a little while anyways. My plans are to put the 3 gauge pillar mount in with Boost, EGT & FP gauges in it. Just waiting on income tax returns.

 

how much was that new lift pump?

 

$180.00 and the Filter was $13

 

Whats bad about the in tank pump?

 

LOW fuel pressure is the problem with the in-tank. 8-9 psi at idle. on dad's with just a ez and 275's it would pull it down to 0 at wot. and that's not good. if the truck is stock it might have the volume to cool the IP, but most want to see that pressure needle closer to 15 than 5 psi

 

Get an in cab fuel pressure guage. Without it you are driving blind and you will burn up your $2,000 injection pump. ($1,500 parts, $500 labor)

When this LP quits (and it will) get an after market Walbro or Fass II set up.