Started my truck this morning to allow it to warm up before taking the wife to the airport but it died within 30-45 secs. I tried to restart it but no go until I had the wife start it while I pressured up the fiuel tank with compressed air. When it finally did start it ran really rough and smoked really hard for a few seconds till it smoothed out. We proceeded on our journey only to be forced to turn around cuase the truck kept losing power and nearly dieing. Took the kids car to the airport and came back home. Started the truck but only after pumping the accelerator vigorously. When it started it smoked really bad again and ran extremely rough for several seconds but then seemed to smooth out. I left it idling and was looking under the hood and the engine slowely lost it's idle speed until it died again.
I've been having some problems with it running rough while at idle speeds but not all of the time. It's generally running bad after pulling a long haul but the last couple of days it's been rough at low rpms most of the time.

I had the truck die on me like this about 3 times before. Once I changed the fuel filter and after what seemed like 1000 pumps on the LP it finally started.
The other couple of times pumped the LP and/or presurrezed the tank with compressed air and got it to start and it seemed to run ok after that

What is going to be my most likely problem here? Fuel lines, filter, ???
What's the best way to test for problems?

 

Have you checked the tightness of the fuel preheater? On my 96' it was a little loose when I bought it. Your problem could be the fuel lines have dryrot but your situation sounds a little more extreme.

 

Ok pressured up the fuel tank with the bleeder scew loosened and I'm getting bubbles. From what I've seen in other posts that's a sign of cracked fuel lines. Got someone else to pressure the tank while I looked at the lines and I can see air bubbles coming from the fuel line just below the hose clamp!
Now I get to scap up my arms changing those boogers out.

 

Ok I replaced one of the lines before and it was a royal pain. I'm assuming it was the return line cause it was dumping fuel on the ground. So what is the best procedure.
What things should I remove to make it easier to change out these lines?
I know I need to cut the lines off so I don't bend or break the metal lines.
Also is it possible to get the right grade of hose at my local NAPA?

 

It is easier to get to the return line if you remove the fuel filter. Other than that, I would recommend replacing the whole thing back to the tank rather than messing with the metal lines. It is easier to access that way and pretty self explanatory as far as where to route them. The toughest part for me (other than fitting my hands in to tighten clamps) was getting the hoses connected at the fuel tank. I ended up using some vaseline to help them slide over the barb.

NAPA has the hose, but you have to specify that you want the right stuff. They will try to sell you the regular fuel line, and it is rated for diesel, but will wear out pretty quick. If I remember right the 30R9 is the SAE rating that you want. I used 12' of each size, 3/8 and 5/16" for my regular cab. Hope this helps.

 

did you have to drop the tank to replace the line at the tank?
I felt around on top of the tank but couldn't tell what I had my hands on.

 

Didn't have to drop the tank. I was able to squeeze between the fender and the frame to see better. Don't know how big you are, but I'm 6'3" 250 and it was pretty tight, but you can see enough. You might also be able to squeeze in the other side if you remove the driveshaft. The clamps on the plastic hoses there are kinda tough to get off, but since you're not going to use them again do whatever you have to to remove them.

I would double clamp all of them just to put your mind at ease, you don't want to have to get back in there again.

 

The air infiltration problem can be flexible lines, the hose in the fuel tank, or the plug on the fuel heater. For grins unplug the heater connector and fill it with dielectric grease and replug and see if it primes without air.

Most NAPA stores have the diesel rated fuel hose. Use the spring type clamps as they keep a constant pressure on the connection while the airplane screw type will allow the hose to take a set and work loose and leak air.

If you have the jacks to do it, unbolt the bed and lift it up enough to clear the tank to work on the sender unit for the in-tank hose and the two to the frame. That is much simpler and safer than squirming around or trying to drop a half full tank of fuel.

 

Ok It's mostly fixed.
I replaced both lines at the engine but not at the tank. I installed the SAE 30R9 hose. The truck had been running really rough at idle most of the time and would get better for a while when I added Howes fuel additive but lately it just kept running rough. That rough idle is gone now!!
I removed the master cylinder, the fuel filter and housing, and the 2 relays that are mounted just above the fuel filter. This gave me enough room to remove both lines from up top without having to crawl under the truck. I had purchased a set of rubberized washers for the banjo bolts quite a while back so i figured I could just remove the whole housing with the filter attached which to me was just as easy if not easier than removing the filter from the housing, I didn't have to refill the filter and then try to screw it back on without spilling diesel all over.
I may try jacking up the bed and doing the other lines in a couple of weeks.
I have to rebuild the front end on my wifes Intrepid and get repairs done on our beach house in Galveston first.
Thanks for all of the help guys!!