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Never did a KDP before.

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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 01:01 PM
  #1  
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From: North Dakota
Question Never did a KDP before.

I have a front seal crankcase leak as well as what looks like a timing case leak and might as well do a KDP fix at the same time as doing the gasket and seals. Is the crankcase seal hard to get in? Does anyone have links to good instructions for a novice to accomplish this?
Thx for any info
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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 03:08 PM
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From: The Great White North
All ya gotta do is search.....

Check my post in this thread:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&highlight=kdp

Also, shoot me your e-mail address and I will send a fairly detailed set of instructions.
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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 06:58 PM
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Yes do it! If you need to open it up anyway make sure its done. Mine was coming out when I fixed it. Glad I did. ( Had a 95 )
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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Thanks for all the replies guys! I decided to rip into it last night. It took around close to five hrs because I had trouble with getting the crank gasket into the cover but other than that I think everything went ok. I guess we will see if I have any leaks when I drive it.
Thx for the links etc!
Matador
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 07:48 PM
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Had your dowel pin moved out at all???? Just curious, Rick
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 09:14 PM
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Hi Rick,
It had moved out appx 1/8 of an inch. When I tapped it back in it did not go back to the recessed position as some have mentioned but did go back to almost flush so I just bolted the my homemade tab over it. I did not use a longer bolt but did loctite it good with red loctite. I used some hard stiff metel that was similar to spring steel that was so hard I burned a titanium drill bit drilling it for the tab. I think the bit was bad to start with. Metel was about a 1/16 of an inch thick. Anyone think I should have used a longer bolt? Do you think I will have any problems?
Matador
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 02:48 AM
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From: Montana
Some folks who have used hard thin steel for a tab have reported that it cracked off.
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 08:48 PM
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You did great, that dowel isn't going nowhere. The tab that cummins sells is thin and all the ones I have done I used the same bolt also with no problems. If you ever go back in there for anyreason, I also recommend to stake the hole with a punch around the hole under the tab, but you got it covered thats what matters. Goodluck,,,Rick
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 10:25 PM
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Some shops only stake the hole to prevent the pin from coming out. It would be sort of ironic to have your KDP tab go through your gear train and mess it up.
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 10:28 PM
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From: North Dakota
By staking do you mean just take a center punch and peen the aluminum metel around the dowel pin?

BTW, the metel I used for the tab was hard but can be bent in a 90 degree bend without breaking but is much harder than cold rolled steel.
Matador
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 11:02 PM
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Yea, two or three places is all I do as just a little extra, I would not go back in tho till you need to,you have it secured as a good as it can be done, Condgradulations now just pass on the info to whomever you run onto. Gooduck,,Rick
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:52 AM
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From: Montana
You'll be fine if the metal can be bent. The folks who have had breaking problems with the tab have fabbed them out of materials such as saw blades.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 07:55 AM
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Infidel,
Thanks for your input. That makes me feel better about what metel I used.
Matador
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