Im new here so i know none of you know im in school right now for diesel mechanics. Last year Case IH donated us three tractors and this one is a Case JX 70. Its a lil I-3 Iveco and the reason why they got donated is because they were all caught in a flood in Texas. So they asked for volunteers to restore this baby back to running shape and it i took it upon myself to do it. And i have to say it has turned into quite the project and i am very glad i choose to do it.

http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/j...uy55/?start=40

I started it off on the third page. These are obviously the before pictures. Just work your way backwards and you can see the progress we have made so far.

 

Wow 63 views and no comments? Weird....

 

Keep going, there is always a need for a good diesel mechanic plus you can work on your own.

 

Just now checked it out... Man, you have your work cut out for you...Getting all the rust gone is the big part. You can have the cast iron parts shot penned. It will not do any good though, the rust will come back...........

 

Actually i dont know if you saw the 'after' pics but almost all of the rust is gone. The only rust left is on the flywheel and prob the clutch. Cylinders, Turbo, head, valves, bearings, all of it is fine now. There wont be any shot peening. And we havent had to replace any parts except the valves. All of the work has been done in house so far. And by me and my partner. We have a machinist of 20 years working by our side to give us advice every once and awhile and the only work left to do is to assemble everything, replace gaskets, replace filters and fluids and i am confident that this tractor will run almost like new.

 

Yes I did view the pics. I have been a machinst for OVER 30 years..The heads have rust damage. On cast iron, even if it has been shot peened. Rust WILL come back, simply wire brushing them will not address the damage. I've done more than enough water damage reclamation for insurance companies in my time on engines, On land as well as marine use. Did you pull main caps and rods and see any rust on the crank in the fillets?

 

Yea we did...that should be on the pics...maybe the after pics didnt upload ill have to check. But we did the head last year and ran out of time so we bolted everything back up 'loosely' and then when we came back after three months the head looked still like new. Im not sayin they wont eventually...but the only thing i can think about is that they will have antifreeze, oil, diesel, extreme heat running through it. So i dont see how rust will happen in there? Please do care to explain though as i am interested. Also know though, that this is not my decision to determine what to fix. Its the schools

 

Not a problem. When cast iron get full of rust, even shot penning will make it go away, for awhile. When dealing with cast iron, it comes back. been there in 30 years, done that. Goes away for awhile. Still want to know about the rust on the crank....What was done to it?

 

huh wierd...i figured if the engine is gettin worked, like actually running, it wouldnt really have problems on the rust side of things. The crank was actually in absolute perfect condition. ZERO rust we checked and checked. Myabe i should also state that this was a BRAND new engine. The thing isnt even broke in yet. We did just pull off the entire engine and with it came the clutch and flywheel and wow...besides the turbo gotta say that was the worst part. FILLED with rust, so idk what were gonna do there.

 

I am into OLD cars, so rust is a every day thing. Removing rust from panels, suspension, and any other parts is simple and cheap, as long as you have a large enough pan/vat to soak it in. Go to a feed store, and buy some molasis - the kind they feed to animals - and mix it about 1 to 7 with water. You can go as high as 1 part molasis to 10 parts water. Let the rusted parts soak in the solution. Depending on severity of rust, it will take from a couple days to a few weeks, but it will remove all the rust only without affecting the part. When your through with it, you can dump it, as there is no harmful products in the solution. Ya, I know this sounds hoaky, but believe me, it works. BTW if you have the mixure around for a while, it will start smellig rank, so a cover helps, or have it outside.

 

Your talking about steel, not cast iron. Rusty CI will bleed rust given enough time. Cast iron is porous.Steel is not. Once rusted always rusted given enough time. Looking at the pics of the cyld head, you can se the rust delaminating the cast iron..

 

If we had enough time sure...but we are actually in the process of putting it back together now, got the gasket kit ordered for it so now we just will slowly put it back together.

On an update we took out the flywheel and clutch and just like everything was completely rusted and i fought and fought to just have it replaced cause to get at it is a COMPLETE PITA but no they just had us take off the rust off the pressure plates, make sure the fingers worked, cleaned up the clutch matierial and put it back together. So i told them that if it starts slippin and goes to hell i wasnt gonna be the one to replace it.

 

I know bud. I put my .02 in. Resto projects are VERY time consuming...I just don't have the patience for it anymore. Post pics of you progress Please...