As stated by the admin. a good idea. How much is too much.
I think the sky is the limit if you are playing with these trucks but if you are using them for " WORKING " how much should we ask of these little trucks. I'm not saying for a moment that they won't pull but to do it safely is another question. I have 235 hp/ 460 lbs/ft of torque. Plenty if you ask me. If I need more I get a larger truck.

 

I don't know. my 325/610 is really good here in the hills. i use every bit of it when i'm pulling my rv. it's nice not haveing to down shift.

 

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old300:

Thank you for starting another thread on this Sir!

I have been and still am on both sides of this issue. I have a 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve that puts out over 800+ H.P. and 1600+ TQ. and I have a 2006 Dodge CTD CR that is at about 500 H.P./1100 TQ. Actually, I tow the 1996 with my 2006 and have also towed a few of my buddies here in our area within the N.C./VA DTR Crew. I would say that my 2006 can do EVERYTHING real well that I want it to,...including towing heavy (10,000-14,000 lbs).
But, in my opinion the 2006 does not come anywhere near the ride that my 1996 will give you when you stomp the acclerator to the floor and want to go fast!! Also, the rush you get when you go to the dragstrip and line up against an unsuspecting Camaro SS or a Ford Cobra and then leave the line and just KILL them in that drag race is also PRICELESS!!

But I agree with you old300,....the Members need to decide what they will actually be using their Dodge CTD Pickups for. There are trade-offs as well as pros and cons. It is tough to have one truck and try to "have it both ways."
And IMO,....the higher you go on H.P./TQ the higher your chances are of having problems. Yes,....my 800+ H.P. 1996 Dodge CTD has been very reliable but I have to keep an eye on the wear within the engine.

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John_P

 

I pull what I need to pull and my truck does a great job. Can you give something to much power? Well yes I broke a rear drivshaft and a broke transmission to show for it. But it was my bill and I payed for it.

Saftey has to be a top concern. It starts with a good driver (I do consider myself one) Then there is your equipment, good tires, good brakes.

I don't know why tow ratings stay so low on these trucks. But then I think back about the Durmax guy that sued GM because while towing he couldn't keep up to a Dodge cummins. And he won!! Then there is that 26K deal and above that you need a different license Then there is location, it would be a cold day in hell before I would pull 38K threw a city. When a manufactor gives a tow rating it has to be for everywhere, not just rural ND.

I am no stranger driving semi trucks, I know how they control the load and how fast they stop. My Dodge pulling 38K at 75 down interstate feel just as stable if not even better. As far as breaking I would put money down that I can stop just as fast as a 80K semi.

I spec out all my trailers with bigger axles so I get bigger brakes. Like my 09 Flatbed triple 10K and my favorite My 09 DK grain trailer 2 16K, that thing will actually pull the truck back with a load.
Where I really like the power is on a 2 lane and you get behind someone who can't go over a hill 40 mph. Give the TST a few clicks and

 

I modded my truck to be more reliable in any circumstance, as my intentions of keeping the truck well kept certainly apply anyway. In my opinion 400hp is very accomodating and with my mods towing is a dream, with low egts and good mileage. When I want I can crank it up some more to play around.

 

Id say as much as you can afford!

 

hey john? i was wondering how or what you mean by monitoring the wear in the engine? other than changing fuel filters, changing the oil or having it sent off for tests, what other things do you do? just curious. and do you tow with your 96? i remember watchin you out in benson back in november of 2007 at that dino day, cant remember the shop, doin some 4wd burnouts, or tryin to. iirc it popped out of 4wd, but the burnout was ridiculously awesome

 

Amen to that...unfortunately that's why my truck is about stock

 

HP/TQ differential actually paints an incredibly detailed picture about the power band of an engine for those who know how to read the picture. Torque is actual measurable power output, while horsepower is just a calculated theoretical number, so to speak. Horsepower is calculated by measuring torque, and multiplying that by RPM, and dividing that total by 5,252. To write it simply:

HP = (TQxRPM)/5252

The important aspect to look at is that TQ is multiplied with RPM, so the higher your HP is at the same torque output, then the higher your peak torque and power band is. The opposite is also true, where TQ peaks lower, then HP will be lower.

As an example, lets say we have a diesel that reaches peak TQ of 700lb/ft @ 1500RPM:
(700x1500)/5252= 199.9HP

Let's use that same 700lb/ft engine, but raise the peak TQ to 2300 RPM:
(700x2300)/5252= 306.5hp

For a tow rig, I'd rather have the lower HP number, and not have to wait for my torque.

This is also the reason that many Jap cars have to spin 8000RPM or more to put out any power. Since they produce no torque, they have to have a HUGE RPM number to multiply against that weeny little torque number to create something that will even move the dang car!

Hopefully this post has been enlightening for some. For a gas car I want to see my HP/TQ numbers be pretty well matched, which means that the power band will most likely be pretty usable in the 3000-6000RPM range. For a gas truck I prefer to see HP about 80% of the torque, which means that it will have decent grunt below 2500 RPM, but not never need to be pushed past 5500RPM at most! A diesel hauler, on the other hand, I'd like to see HP be about half of TQ at the max! These are general guidelines, and not designed to be a replacement for a test drive.

 

335/800 is just perfect for towing my 17k rv 245/505 was lacking

 

I remember that day in Durham... I was just getting broke in... I think I have a picture of the rubber John laid down there.

John has that motor torn apart and inspected every so often. I won't comment anymore past that, but he takes care of that thing like I take care of my kids. (maybe even better)


How much HP?

Two views. With my truck, I think that I'm going to get to the point that I'm going to need another daily driver. It's going to be a long road, but I'm going to continue to slowly mod my truck when money is available.

Second, as a tow rig or something that you make money with, I think that just a little bump is all you need, say a smarty junior or the like, with a few supporting mods. I pulled my wife's truck and a bunch of junk on my trailer cross country with the smarty on one and the revo settings low, (RP, TQ), and that thing was a MONSTER going up mountains... I was passing everything in sight. I would estimate that I was around 18k. (my truck, 7800, hers, a mega, 6200, and a 3500 lb trailer, with both of the beds and her interior loaded). I mean screaming.

I'm not even really set up for towing... If I had twins, or some smaller sticks, I could have turned the smarty up a bit and set some records.

 

I would be very happy with a stock engine that put out 325-350 HP with between 850-900 TQ.

 

"How much H.P./TQ you REALLY need !"

That's a rhetorical question...kind of like asking "How much weapontry do you really need?"

My truck - or my toolbox - can never be too powerful!

 

Got that right about the toolbox.....LOL

 

I recently pulled 18,000lb with my early 04 truck that only has a Van Aaken box set on the 65hp setting. Other than the loose stock torque converter the truck pulled this load easily once I got rolling. It was a bit slow off the line but what can you expect with that much weight behind it. I decided then that I did not need any more power.....