Engine Temp on a Long Pull
10-31-2006, 05:42 PM
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Engine Temp on a Long Pull
I have a 2002 Dodge 2500 and on a recent trip to So Cali and Arizona I had to take the Hoover Dam bypass. This took me through Laughlin NV up to Hwy 95 to Vegas (sea level going up a steep grade to about 6800 feet). On this trip I was pulling my 18ft trailer with a 71 Dodge Charger. My estimate is that I was pulling about 5300 pounds total. The intital pull was fine but by midway up the temps started going up and pegged out at 240. I also noticed that the waste gate was engaging dropping my power down to where I was only able to crawl up the hill. My trans temp never got over 150. When I got up to the top I stopped to let my EGT's cool and I noticed that the motor didn't really feel it was all that hot. The mods on the truck are a 4" exhaust system, aircleaner and a Edge box. Seems like when the temps were up the waste gate engaged. The max boost I noted was around 20 pds and EGT's around 900 max. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Sorry, I know I posted the other day but I can't seem to edit that post for some reason.
Sorry, I know I posted the other day but I can't seem to edit that post for some reason.
Last edited by dart4forte; 10-31-2006 at 05:55 PM. Reason: spelling
10-31-2006, 05:59 PM
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Long Pull
Yes, I flushed the rad before the trip. I also went the car wash and cleaned the radiator from the backside. Also to add what I described that when I headed down hill the temp slowly returned to 190
10-31-2006, 09:30 PM
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you can get a redline product called waterwetter.
it breaks the surface tension of the water, allowing it to transfer heat better from the metal surfaces into the coolant. i also extends the chemicals in the coolant which protect from rust and boiling, etc. costs about $8 a bottle. claims to lower water temp 20*. i use it, but the gauge isnt accurate enough to really notice anything different.
what lowered my cool temp the most, was replacing the turbo, and lowering the egt's. that made a major difference.
it breaks the surface tension of the water, allowing it to transfer heat better from the metal surfaces into the coolant. i also extends the chemicals in the coolant which protect from rust and boiling, etc. costs about $8 a bottle. claims to lower water temp 20*. i use it, but the gauge isnt accurate enough to really notice anything different.
what lowered my cool temp the most, was replacing the turbo, and lowering the egt's. that made a major difference.
10-31-2006, 11:00 PM
#7
If you are certain the radiator fins are clean, I would then be thinking about installing a new t-stat. I live in that hell hole so I pull that grade everytimg I race in Vegas or Phoenix and even in the 120+ heat I have no issues with overheating. Most I'll ever see is about 3/4 gauge. Did you note your fan clutch kicking in? It should have engaged with your stated temps, and if it does you WILL know it.
....if you turnbuckle your wastegate you'll be able to increase your boost up to the 28-31 range fyi.
....if you turnbuckle your wastegate you'll be able to increase your boost up to the 28-31 range fyi.
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11-01-2006, 09:14 AM
#9
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The probable areas to check:
1. Radiator fouled on fan side by breather bottle.
2. Thermostat
3. Fan clutch
I pull a 16K GVWR 5th wheel in the Texas Hill Country during 100+ degF ambient temperatures. On long, 6% grades, the temp will start to climb above the normal 195 degF level road reading but when it reaches around 200-205 degF, the fan clutch kicks in and the temperature drops down to 190 degF or lower.
Rusty
1. Radiator fouled on fan side by breather bottle.
2. Thermostat
3. Fan clutch
I pull a 16K GVWR 5th wheel in the Texas Hill Country during 100+ degF ambient temperatures. On long, 6% grades, the temp will start to climb above the normal 195 degF level road reading but when it reaches around 200-205 degF, the fan clutch kicks in and the temperature drops down to 190 degF or lower.
Rusty
11-01-2006, 09:16 AM
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Just kiddin' with ya. It sounded funny at first. 
I bet they have new ones on sale at http://www.kalecoauto.com/
11-01-2006, 10:11 AM
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Dodge overheating
I'll go ahead and replace the T-stat and rad cap. It's sometimes hard to hear the fan clutch kick in since the truck is kinda loud. I'll keep these suggestions in the memory banks. Since it's kindsa cold now (11 degrees yesterday) I'm sure I won't have any overheating issues but I'll sure take these suggestions in consisderation when I start pulling again in the spring. Thanks guys.
11-01-2006, 10:15 AM
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Mine is quite loud, too (check the signature below), but there's no question when the fan clutch kicks in. If you can't hear it, chances are it's not working.
Rusty
Rusty
11-01-2006, 01:56 PM
#13
I'll go ahead and replace the T-stat and rad cap. It's sometimes hard to hear the fan clutch kick in since the truck is kinda loud. I'll keep these suggestions in the memory banks. Since it's kindsa cold now (11 degrees yesterday) I'm sure I won't have any overheating issues but I'll sure take these suggestions in consisderation when I start pulling again in the spring. Thanks guys.
...if it's that cold where you are at you should definately notice if the t-stat is bad. It will take forever for the engine to warm up...if it does at all. You would also notice a wide margin of gauge sweep as you climb and decend grades.
11-01-2006, 04:31 PM
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Pull
I agree, it seems to warm up just fine. Stays at 195 but I really haven't put it under a load since I've been back.
11-01-2006, 05:32 PM
#15
Then I recant my statement about replacing the t-stat. It really wouldn't hurt to pull the radiator and check the fins. I can't stress enough on here how bad these things get plugged up.