I use the 0w40 ROT T in my quad during the winter.

I wouldn't use the stuff in my truck unless it was -40 all the time.

There are alot of good lubes out there, biggest thing is to change the oil on a regualr basis and don't forget to use a good filter or it will all be in vein when the filter falls apart..

Fleetguard for me..


Jason

 

Why?? Its 0W40

 

It's a well proven fact that an oil with a viscosity spread of over 25 points breaks down on the high end much faster. In other words your 0w40 will end up becoming a 0w25 before you want it to.
You're much better off using a 15w40 unless you live in the artic.

 

I know this use to be true....have not seen recent test results so don't know....may still be so.

Either way...it takes a lot more V.I. (Viscosity Improver) to spread the numbers so far apart....so you end up with less base oil/additives...unless someone figured out how to get more than 32 oz. in a quart? So you still end up with an oil that doesn't last as long or protect as well.

As Infidel said....better and longer protection if you stay within 25 point spread.

RJ

 

FYI - Mobile I is no longer a straight Group IV oil (PAO base oil). The new Tri-Base Oil, or whatever they call it, is now a combination of Groups III, IV and V. Marketed as an upgrade... but racers tell me they see poorer results in terms of more internal wear to moving parts. Having to replace bearings, etc. more frequently.
The fact that it now contains Group III, to help hold down costs, comes from a Mobil employee. The reports from racers are all hear-say....as I have never tested or used the newer Mobil I!

RJ

 

Whoa...when did this happen??? Thats news to me. Thanks - guess I can quit spreading misinformation... . Why do they always change anything thats good?

 

Well, I just about live in the Artic...

I did not know that the 0W40 would break down faster than the 15W40.....interesting.

I know this has been discussed before - any problems switching back and forth between dino oil and syn?? I really need the syn in the winter. I currently do this and have noticed some oil leaks but I dont think they are from changing oils.

Thx Bill !!!

 

I would imagine it is available in 22L pails, and i intend to find out , they have rotella T in 22L pails, why not get XD-3?

 

That pretty much sums it up..

If you look in the owners manual it will give you a range at which certain oils will run in your vehicle. It is true that the synthetics will run out of this range but only so far.

I still run Dino oils as I see very little advantage in running the expensive synthetic oils since they dont stay in the pan for more than 8 weeks at a time.

In the winter I use ROT T 10w30 and have done that in both my trucks since I had them with no troubles.

Even the 10w30 can be run in fairly far into the nice weather without any trouble.


Jason

 

the only problem is I see -30 to -40 temps....syn is pretty much necessary

 

Agreed, synthetic in this part is darn near mandatory(-30 to -40 also) , unless truck is plugged in all the timeMine starts instantly in winter with Mobil 1 10w30(even without being plugged in), less clatter, instant oil pressure, and less wear on internals of engine, as most engine wear is in first minute of startup.

Follow manual with your temp. range to determine viscosity of oil required. Syn or dino your call, both work good in certain applications. You pick which one suits you best based on oil change intervals, hiway vs. city(stopngo), idling, towing, etc.. If you don't tow in winter, viscosity spread break down ( 25 points as Infidel, and rjohnson stated) is not near as critical though, as you may not require 40w rating protection.

 

HUh?

 

What Torque is saying is you won't need 40w oil when the temps are low.

 

of course...was early when I read that