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>>> Direct Drive Fan Hub ???

Old May 21, 2010 | 09:48 AM
  #16  
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From: Yuba city Kalifornia
Originally Posted by Stamey
Just keep in mind that how much power the fans robs depends on its design. In the case of my dump truck, and my Dodge's, that plastic fan is huge, and really moves some air when it is moving at engine speed. Older vehicles with a metal fan did not have as aggressive a style, and while the clutch may have helped fuel mileage a little, it didn't make much difference either way.
My dump truck was the first case in which I encountered the fan putting so much drag on the engine as to limit its RPMs. Never had a bad clutch on the Dodges, so I don't know, but I'm betting I'd see similar behavior.


Chris
you know your right on with this. last summer I was pulling my 5er to the coast and on one of the real long grades (7%) a Duramax was trying to pass me
he had about the same size trailer but lighter in weight (my toy hauler is 16900) anyways, about 2/3 the way up we were neck and neck when I heard his fan kick in , and his truck slowed down like the brakes were put on .I have seen them Dmax fans and there BIG, like a 3rd gen fan
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Old May 21, 2010 | 01:36 PM
  #17  
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From: Powhatan, Virginia
Originally Posted by MexStan
Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but isn´t the clutch electricaly operated via a switch at the bottom of the rad? If that is the case, then why can´t you bypass the rad switch and install a manual switch in the cab?
This is certainly with case with HD applications, but I have not seen it in light duty applications, such as our trucks. Third gen maybe, but I don't have a third gen so I can't go out and look.
I think BearKiller is dealing with a first gen.
But, BK, you might check into what the third gen uses, if it is really an electrical, then you could have total control over the clutch without pinning it.

Chris
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Old May 21, 2010 | 03:57 PM
  #18  
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
How about just pulling the fan and putting a set of twin electric fans hooked up to a toggle switch? I think theres a write up on this somewhere.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #19  
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I cut the nut off an old clutch then welded a shaft and flange on it for a flex fan. After welding put it in the lathe to true it up. The flex fan is the same size as the original. I have not seen any differance in fuel mileage, or power. Cooling is better, and temps stay much more even. I would not run the original fan all the time just to noisy for me. The flex fan is much quieter. Look for one with nicely curved blades. Some are just "bent".
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Old May 22, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ronnie
I cut the nut off an old clutch then welded a shaft and flange on it for a flex fan. After welding put it in the lathe to true it up. The flex fan is the same size as the original. I have not seen any differance in fuel mileage, or power. Cooling is better, and temps stay much more even. I would not run the original fan all the time just to noisy for me. The flex fan is much quieter. Look for one with nicely curved blades. Some are just "bent".

I have actually considered doing just what you did.



As for the electric clutches, I am almost certain that the later model Ford diesels use them.

They function similarly to an A/C clutch.
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Old May 22, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #21  
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I have a 2005 that gives me the P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunction error. I have never had a problem with overheating, but I was wondering if the computer is going to be happy with the fan locked up all the time
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Old May 23, 2010 | 10:32 AM
  #22  
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Ok fella's, as promised. Sorry for the delay.

This fan drive clutch is off of a 2001 international 4700 with a 215hp DT466. It was original to the truck, 550k on it. The clutch is a Schwitzer brand, model is called an Enduro Drive.

The first picture is of the assembly as a whole.



Remove the temp button actuator.





Note the engagement pin, pull it out.





The fan has to be in working order for this to work. If the clutch assembly has oil or grease all over it then it is most likely shot. It needs the fluid in order to drive the fan, (fluid coupling). There should be no oil or grease coming from the pin hole, another indication that the clutch is defective.

As a side note, be advised that just because the fan does not engage when the engine temp is hot does not mean the clutch is defective. You should verify that the A/C condensing coil and radiator are clean and the the fins are not folded over. The button on the front of the fan drive has to see the heat from the air flow before it will engage. The heat causes the button to essentially expand and move away from the pin allowing the pin to move outward allowing fluid coupling and thus fan engagement. After pulling the pin the fan will not lock up in your hand, it needs centrifugal force to apply. If any of you engage the fan in this manner there is no going back. You destroy the temp button when you pull it off. The replacement fan drive cost me $400 clams from International, that includes my national discount.



Hope this works for you.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:34 PM
  #23  
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Thanks for the pictorial description.

Very much appreciatted.


What month and day is it, anyhow; according to the date-stamp on the photos, I have lost almost a month somewhere.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 07:20 AM
  #24  
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LOL, yeah I did not set the date and time stamp. For some reason on my little Kodak camera when I replace the batteries the time date stamp resets or goes to some thing else on its own. Too bad it could not see a month into the future.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #25  
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From: Wes Taycksus Ya'll
A feller might post this question over on the 4BTswaps site. I swiped this photo a few years ago from a online add selling a 4bt. Looks like a lower position hub mount with 4 bolt flange. I have a small machine shop here at my house and have thought about just machining a hub to replace the threaded dodge hub application but never tried it.

Theirs a number on the front timing cover,....not sure if its a in house stock number for the seller or a engine serial numba.

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Old May 31, 2010 | 01:03 AM
  #26  
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Fans designed for use with clutches are more aggressive to pull adequate air through the A/C condensor at idle so the head pressure cutout doesn't trip. Whether thermostatically controlled or not, they are typically limited to 2300 rpm.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 12:03 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by gadget.35-06
Fans designed for use with clutches are more aggressive to pull adequate air through the A/C condensor at idle so the head pressure cutout doesn't trip.


If that was their intentions, then they need to go back to the drawing-board.

Poor low-speed/ sitting still A/C performance is exactly what caused me to pin my clutch in the first place.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 09:30 PM
  #28  
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From: Wes Taycksus Ya'll
Bump.

Hey Bearkiller, you had any luck with this yet? I'm very interested in finding this number also.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 02:37 AM
  #29  
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From: Olive Branch MS
3rd gens have an electronic viscous fan clutch. You can add a switch to manually engage it if needed. I personally never had any poor ac or over heating issues with mine.
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