As per my findings discussed here :

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t291226.html


: I ordered the direct-drive fan-hub adapter --- part # 852 --- and a heavy-truck all-steel six-blade 19.5-diameter fan --- part # 1619P.

SUMMIT had this stuff in stock.


I just finished removing the pitiful clutch-fan and installing this no-nonsense air-moving machine.

Everything about this set-up is better.

Before, seeing as how I have a Ford/Cummins, the clutch-fan occasionally kissed my shiny-new behemoth Ford diesel radiator and was fearfully close even when the engine was not running.


This direct-drive set-up gives me a good inch-and-a-half between fan and radiator, plus plenty of space between the fan and engine accessories.


Ever since the engine swap, I have been running shroudless; always meaning to build a shroud but never happening.


Even without a shroud, with engine idle set at 1800, I can stand six-feet in front of the truck, turn loose a sheet of typing-paper, and it will suck flat against the grille and stay there; it would never do this with the stock fan and the clutch pinned.




My next project is to fabricate a shroud.

 

Sounds like it worked out for you! Good to hear.

 

Sounds good, but I would get sick of hearing the fan all the time. I would rather have some kind of air clutch like the big trucks, just gotta find one for the 5.9.
DS79

 

I cannot hear the fan I used at all.


Honestly, I don't see how anyone can hear anything above the normal sound of these engines.

 

Also, I have been thinking about this for a while, especially after noticing how several hard-hauling old-timers have wedged the hood above the hinges, thus creating a no-money-spent cowl scoop; but, this approach makes it obvious that the hood is not completely closed.

In a normal un-altered engine-bay, with the hood closed and traveling down the road, there is no place for the heat, nor any fresh air, to go except out from under the engine, and my belief is that road-draft would pretty much prevent that.

Any air coming through the grille gets stopped hard against the fire-wall, thus we are actually pushing a wall of air ahead of us that is not doing much good.


My intentions are to procur a pair of those rear-ward opened hood-scoops and actually cut the matching holes under them.


Thus, there will be somewhere ABOVE and BEHIND the engine for the hot air to escape and the fresh in-coming air to push the stale air out.


Before I actually do this, I intend to mount the sensor of one of those dash-mounted thermometers under the hood and get some idea of just how hot things are under there.


Then, once the scoops are mounted, I can compare temperature differences.


My only fear is that any fuel or oil droplets will probably end up on my windshield.

 

My hat is off to you for finding an option to the fan clutch and quite elegantly.

Thanks for letting us all know!

 

I would also like to know if this helps the a/c.

 

There was a company selling side louver sections to install on the front fenders to vent the engine compartment, but away from the windshield. Someone may know what I'm talking about?

--Eric

 

It came to my attention that I had mis-typed the part-number for the fan.


I edited my original post and made the correction.

Straight from the SUMMIT invoice :

HUB = #FLX-852

FAN = #FLX-1619P

I hope my typo did not cause too much confusion.


I have never received so many PM messages before about any other modification I have made; there seems to be some genuine interest in getting away from those crappy fan-clutches.

 

Bearkiller did just the adapter and fan all that was required? Or did you need a spacer also? On mine the a/c does not cool good idleing or around town for that matter but on the highway does ok. I think I need more airflow at low speed. Do you think this would help?

 

How close to the windshield are you going to mount your scoops?

Before you do I would secure the free end of a liquid manometer at various points along the base of the hood and look for the lowest pressure zone to mount them,
Performance cars of the 70's had cowl induction hood scoops to capture the high pressure air off the base of the windshield.

Also don't forget that whatever vapors blow out the hood scoops will get drawn in by your ventilation system although you should have a killer defroster.

Functional fender well exits like the ones on the new 450/550 Super Duty Fords would be nice.

Jim

 

The direct-drive certainly does help with low-speed A/C; I can feel the difference and the A/C gauges show the difference in decreased high-side pressures.


I am a pretty darn good mathematician, geometrist, algebraist, and trigonomotryist, but figuring out the fan clearances sure put my head to a'scratchin'.

As I already said, the stock non-I/C Dodge fan was so close to my Ford radiator that it occasionally kissed; I did not have any room for error in my calculations.


After calling Flex-a-Lite several times to get measurements that they didn't even have, I took a chance and ordered the HUB and the FAN that I listed the part-numbers for and figured, once I actually had the fan in hand, I could install it and then if a spacer was required, I could measure just how much and go from there.


As it turns out, NO SPACER REQUIRED.

I have plenty of clearance fore and aft.

 

Ah JIM, you speak of such things as if a dumb country hick such as myself would have any earthly idea just what a manometer was and where to procur such a beast.


There are at least ten of those trucks a day in our shop and thus far I had thought those were just plastic dummies stuck on the fenders like on so many other vehicles.

The next one I see, I am gonna examine it more closely and see if I can retrofit a set onto my truck.


In fact, I seem to remember a TECH article over at the RamCharger site that shows how to install a functional set of fender exits on a RamCharger; I don't remember just what kind/model of car they swiped them from.

 

Sounds awesome, can we see a pic of the installed product?

 

The base of the windshield, and extending suprisingly far up the hood is a high pressure zone.

If you want more flow through the radiator, put on an air dam under the bumper. If you cut a hole as you proposed, mark it with some thread and you'll see it blowing into the engine bay, not out of it.
cheers,
Douglas