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7.3 Powerstroke broke down in my driveway...

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Old 04-11-2010, 04:39 AM
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Question 7.3 Powerstroke broke down in my driveway...

Some will remember me asking about a 97 Ford PS my son in law was buying a few weeks ago. Well, he bought it and it won't start.

Actually it does start up sometimes.

He was here Friday and it wouldn't start when he went to leave. We changed the Cam Position Sensor, no start.

Saturday morning I read on Powerstroke.com that if it's low on oil it won't start. I checked oil, it was low so I added oil and it started. I thought I solved it but it wouldn't start again.

At noon we changed the fuel filter since the "Fuel Filter" light was lit in the dash. It started up and ran, he shut it off and it started up. We came in to eat lunch thinking it was fixed but it wouldn't start when he went to leave.

It cranks fine, but won't fire up.

I don't know these Powerstokes at all....all help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Old 04-11-2010, 07:08 AM
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I thought you were going to ask how much C-4 it would take to remove it from the premises. We have people who know the answer to that question here.

I don't have much experience with them, but it sounds like a fuel supply problem. Flaky lift pump or relay maybe?
Old 04-11-2010, 08:25 AM
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^^^^they use a mechanical lift pump, known to give erratic pressures especially on startup, and prone to leaking....dieselsite has a replacement electric kit...also make sure your hpop resevior is full. you might also find your injector harnesses are fubar where they exit the valve cover.
Old 04-11-2010, 10:15 AM
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Bad fuel?
Enough Fuel?
If it cranks over fine, but won't start, logics suggest fuel issues.

Good luck.
Old 04-11-2010, 11:32 AM
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Check the hpop oil level, there is a plug on the side of the hpop remove it, oil should leak out. No oil coming out means it is draining back into the oil pan which can and will create and extended crank to start or no start.

Also as previously stated look at the wiring harnesses going to the back of the valve cover. There is a plug there that fails, also pins break off creating an intermittent start/no start condition. The wires also chaff in that area.

Let us know what you find up to this point. Don't worry we will get this going for you.
Old 04-11-2010, 12:31 PM
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If the glow plugs aren't working or the relay is bad it may not start when cold.
Old 04-11-2010, 12:51 PM
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As mentioned, have a look at the glow plug relay. They build up resistance in the contacts that can be measured as voltage drop when the relay is energized. If the resistance is bad enough, it will be obvious as a blackened or charred terminal on the relay.
Old 04-11-2010, 03:47 PM
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Thanks a bunch guys.

It seems that it will start but only when it's cold or after it has sat for a while. I was away this morning but did try it about an hour ago, it started right up and ran fine. I drove it around on the driveway and yard. But...I shut it off and waited about 5 minutes and it wouldn't start again.

That seems to be the thing, won't start warm.

He's coming over for supper soon and we will have a look at a few things mentioned above.

Any ideas on the only starting when cold?
Old 04-11-2010, 05:27 PM
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This is where a scanner would be handy. There may be an intermittent failure in the high pressure oil system, like the IPR valve or ICP sensor.
Old 04-11-2010, 08:53 PM
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If it will only start when warm, try unplugging the ICP sensor, and see if it makes a difference. It will start and run without the sensor hooked up, but it won't be great. The IPR just defaults, and you have steady state high pressure oil.

If it still won't start, reconnect the ICP sensor, and check the wiring harness connectors at the valve covers. I would almost bet that you have an UVCH becoming disconnected. IF you can wiggle the harness, and it starts, then what you want to do, is pull the valve covers, and reconnect the harnesses underneath. When you do this, use a sawed off quarter as a spacer for the harness clip, so that it doesn't come loose again.
Old 04-12-2010, 06:22 AM
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X2 on the scanner. If it is indeed an UVC harness, it would have some codes stored in the IDM (injector driver module). The KOER test will pull those codes and the injector buzz test can test the injectors.

Heard of this only a few times. A no start when warm can sometimes be IPR (injection pressure regulator) o-rings. The IPR is located on the back of the HPOP (high pressure oil pump). http://www.dieselorings.com/index.ph...cat=10&group=5 This is the best place for o-rings for the powerstroke. Also to, when was the last oil change? Good oil is vital for the powerstrokes. Let us know how it goes.
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