John Faughn

Most all of the really good studies I've read [ really good to means to me , that lots of proven facts not assumtions , then having a shop that is certifided on the eng. in ? tore down and inspeced ] , I've read from 4 different studies , combined university & independent shops , I so far I haven't found any that have done any without one of the 3 process's that take out the gliserin , PH balance and a few other steps that turn it into a certifide fuel , [ generly the cert. lets you sell to the public ] .
I've been to a bunch of the bio-vegi-alt fuel sites and there a lot of people doing the just filter it , DSE , what ever , but for my investment I want to have a higer % of the lack of problums , it would seem that the 2 tank system is very limited [ the conditions have to be just so , heated ect. to do the best and those are not within the every day driving conditions ]
I'm not hear to burst anybodies bubble , just sharing info to help .
I have been using biodiesel , but with the cold climit , and the avalbilty of getting B100 to make my own mix [ warm above 30* 1/3 bio 2/3rds #2 , cold -30* 10% bio 90* #2 ] that seems to get the best mpg / power for every day driving .
I do plan to proccess my own in the future , probuby the transesterfication procces .

derherr65

I suspect that would be the difference. Certification requires meeting an unknown number of regulations passed for a variety of reasons... very few of which had the consumer first in mind.

John Faughn

You may have missed my main points , 1st there is not much longterm evidence that not processing vegi oil is not harmfull long term , 2nd is that if you use processed vegi oil know how to process , or get it from a known/cert. source .
Saving your truck will be cheaper than saving a few pennies [ weather you buy at retail or process it { and count your time } ] I figure about $2.00 gal. to do either .

schoust

Guy's It's simple the studies are out there if you use oil that is properly dewatered and filtered down to at least five microns and heated to 165 degree's there will be no problems as I said I have been doing this for some time now with my 12 valve now the 24 valve is a bit differant this requires that the pressures be exactly right then again most people know this alredy.Myself I don't have a whole lot of money into my truck so experimenting dosn't bother me as much,if the truck was 30 K that might be a bit differant......

Chemical

How do your mods work with the veggie?

there is not much info out there on this topic....


Any dyno numbers?

schoust

No I have no dyno numbers but it is clear that the power leval is not on par with the diesel that is more than likly due to the cetain value being lower. I think as long as the oil is clean,dry and at least 160 degrees you will ahve no problems.

John Faughn

I do not want to start any issues , but this what I'm talking about , we all make misstakes and beleave one source & not an other .
The power level is relative [ myself & others ] have found that with any mod that are not related to bio, that 1/3-bio & 2/3 #2 give a little more Power & mpgs , If I had the $$$ I like to develop mods that take the bio into injectors ect.
As for less centain , thats just the other way around , bio has higher centain [ between 50 & 87 ] , but lower BTUs .
I wish also had an unlimited access to a Dyno .
Think about the heating if you use a 2 tank method [ diesel 1-5 gals , WVO - 35 gals +] think about how long it would take to heat that volume with the small heating capibilties of the systems that are normaly avalable , you would have to plug in and run a much bigger diesel tank to run the truck long enough to get your 35 gal. up to that temp , so the point being that under the conditions that we drive the waste oil can not work under recomened conitions [ that leaves out the build up that most studies refer to , for gliserin ].
Remember this is all for the sake of info , not I know better , I'm always more than willing to change my mind , if I find better info .

Chemical

I will grant this to the "greasel" people on their heating theory....this is based on a quarter century of drag race and road race background....

The heating DOES NOT come from the heat exchange thermal transfer of a coolant coil or radiator fluid coil in the tank alone.

There is a vast amount of heat exchange going on right at the fuel line and at the fuel pump.

As a matter of fact, without a fuel COOLER, I would say there is a good chance that under 150 degree fuel COULD NOT be delivered to the engine no matter what once you were up to operating temperature. There is too much available potential energy radiating off of the engine and lines. Put your hand there and try and hold these parts.

schoust

Guy's when first off when I was talking about the cetain levels I was compairing waste oil with reguler Diesel and I'm more than sure that diesel has a higher leval of energy than waste oil hence more power and as far as getting the waste oil hot enough it's all about system design mine has a heat exchanger in the tank pickup area it has a fleetgaurd filter with 12 volt heat and coolant heat the lines are hose within a hose I have a flat plate heat exchanger under the hood and I lastly I have another 12 volt heat source right before the injecter pump. It is still difficult to get good temps in the colder weather but my work is not finished I have other ideas that I may employ. It does work and It works good it's just a lot of work...

John Faughn

I guess my main point was that in every day driving the % of the time that the WVO is at temp to burn as the people that used unproccessed oil [ waste or virgin ] needs to be to get the gliserin to burn , is relatively low so you are going to end up with the harmful build ups , so that with the effert , expense and the long term effects , it is cheaper and easyer to process it .,
This is wear my learning has got me to , I haven't seen enough evidence to convince yet.

schoust

I'm not understanding exactly what you you mean by the (glycerin)I simply filter dry and heat to 150 degrees and moter I will admit that it does take a few miles to get things up to operating temp but for me that is not much of a bother because I have somwhat of a ride to work.

Begle1

WVO has two parts- glycerine and biodiesel. To make biodiesel, you process out the glycerine with the methanol/ lye process. Doing so results in a lower viscosity, and a lower BTU per gallon.

If you keep the glycerine, which is really un-saturated fat, then you need an auxilliary heating system but you're burning a fuel with a higher BTU content per gallon.

If you can maintain efficiency, a engine burning WVO will make more power than an engine burning #2. Think of WVO as the equivalent to #3 Diesel; more viscosity equals more power.

Of course, I've never seen anything at all to indicate that what I've just said is true, but it was once the way of thinking about 4 years ago when I started following this stuff.

rconrad16

What is the ratio or process to do this way and what about cold temps does it affect the process? Thanks ive been interested in this

Chemical

Someone, somewhere, has got to have dyno numbers to positively refute or confirm this theory one way or the other.


I am thinking lower BTU and more maintenence myself, but that is just me.

schoust

Ok now I see what he is saying but as far as the wvo having a higher cetain leval I have never seen any documentation saying that only the oposite. Again guy's if your time is more important than saving some money on fuel I don't recamend this but like I said if you make it a hobbie like I have it becomes les like work.....