RoGrrr

Fellas
First post here, and it's a fairly long one but I wanted to give some history so you have an idea what I'm doing.
I'm new at the MO thing and am filtering and running t straight. I'm having intermittent problems and need some advice. Here is a compilation from threads on thedieselstop.com but I've been unable to figure out the problem soI thought I'd try here.

If anyone has ideas, let me know. I'm really at a loss.

Roger

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NEWBIE with WMO/RMO report and QUESTION/NEED HELP

I drive a 96 F250 7.3PSD 4WD (relatively new to me), dual 5 inch straight stacks, 35 inch tires, 4 inch lift, EDGE programmer, new glow plugs, stock, otherwise. 200,000 miles and I get about 14 MPG on the freeway. It has plenty of power and lots of acceleration.

I decided to try RMO.

I set up a filter with a PH8 followed by a “rope wound” whole-house water filter, feed was by gravity from my garage going down into my basement, a fall of about 8 feet.

I’ve installed a 50 gallon aux tank in the bed of the truck and had to install a vent in it. I filled it with 5 gallons of oil. The truck started up fine and seemingly ran well.

I’m running 100% RMO.

When I got on the highway, it accelerated very well up to about 40 but then gets a bit anemic. Well, it gets a LOT anemic. Pushing on the pedal gives almost no acceleration. I switched back to diesel fuel and all was well,

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I replaced the fuel filter and drove it on straight RMO. Not only did it run strong (I mean STRONG !) it didn't flatten out about 45. I easily got it up to about 75, still pulling strong, like a bull.

What I noticed, tho, was that not only was the boost up, like easily over 20 and sometimes over 25, the EGT climbed VERY QUICKLY to 1200, when it normally ran 1000 max with diesel and cruised the freeway at around 700. That concerns me, since I keep hearing fellas say to keep the temp down and get out of it when the temps climb. I suspect that when I start pulling a load, it will run really hot with me not having any way to back it down, other than switch back to diesel.

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so I installed a new fuel filter and drove the truck. It ran GREAT. I was thinking that I solved the problem and drove it to work yesterday (40 miles of freeway each way) and then a couple miles to pick up a big oil tank. It ran great all the way.
I picked up the 500 pound tank and drove it home. Still ran great.
I did notice, tho, the EGT ran from 100 to 200* higher than with diesel fuel. it used to cruise at about 600 and now it is up to around 800 on level interstate, changing only the fuel.

So then on the way in to work, I had gone about 25 miles and noticed the RPM climbing but the speedo drifting down. I also think it had come out of overdrive (auto tranny). I felt less and less response from the throttle pedal, to the point, I thought I had run the 50 gallon tank dry. No gauge on it and I have no idea what kind of mileage I'm getting.

I pulled off and changed back to diesel.

So then, afternoon, I checked the tank - plenty of oil, switched back to RMO and started the truck. Seemed normal. I also pulled the fuel filter and saw that it looked good, not all plugged up like I expected it to be. The diesel had rinsed the black away so I could see the filter media. It sounded good and had plenty of power. I drove about 10 miles and it got 'flat' again. The temp gauge on the dash was normal but the EGT was still 100-200* higher than diesel. I switched back to diesel and it drove normally the rest of the way, with normal power and temperatures.

When I got to within about 5 miles of home and decided to try the oil again. Drove about 3 miles and it really got flat and I had to switch back to diesel.

I'm wondering if my fuel line might be plugging up and not allowing full flow of fuel (new 3/8 rubber hydraulic hose which should not be collapsing or shedding) .

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OK, here’s the latest

Next day
I switched it over to oil ; it was cold from sitting overnite. It started normally. I went about 2 miles and noticed it going flat. As I was climbing a small hill, not only was it lugging down, but it died. I pulled off the road and switched it back over to diesel. It cranked for between 5 and 10 seconds and sounded like it was trying to start and maybe even a muffled backfire ! Another 5 seconds of cranking and it started.

At this point, looking at all the symptoms, I’m beginning to believe it’s fuel starvation, probably coming from either a collapsing rubber fuel line up to the fuel selector valve located on top of the engine, or the “sock filter” I put on the bottom of the pickup tube is clogged. I don’t see how the hyd hose could be collapsing – it's new and I don’t think the fuel lift pump has THAT much suction to flatten it.

Someone asked me if my fuel line is big enough to flow enough oil to feed the 7.3 engine. My response was that if the hose is too small, why, then, was I able to romp it REAL hard the other day and it pulled very strong up past 75 MPH and then haul a 900 pound load home (high fuel demand conditions) the same day but now,empty and I wasn't getting on it, it lugged and even died ?

Process of elimination leads me to believe it is a fuel line problem. If necessary and I find that the hydraulic hose is failing me, I’ll replace it with a steel line of larger diameter. I didn’t hesitate to use a rubber supply line since oil is not considered flammable and if it did somehow spring a leak, the flow rate would be low enough to allow me to repair it before my 50 gallons runs out.

BTW, I had disconnected my glow plugs in March. I start the truck without the aid of glow plugs while it's warm. When the temps get down into the 40's I'll reconnect the relay.

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I'm still concerned about elevated EGTs on oil....

I checked the filter and it looked good. I checked the sock filter and it looked good, too. So I opened the fuel line at the engine and blew the contents back into the tank and removed the line from the output of the tank (nipple heh heh) and blew thru it by mouth. I felt no restriction so I still believe the line to be good.

MikeyB

I think the problem is the engine just doesn't like running on 100% WMO. Too thick for atomization. Best way is to mix it with diesel or kerosene, like 50/50.

MikeyB

shorthair

I had a '90 IDI fror a few years & ran WMO in it at ratio's as high as 90% in warm weather 50% in winter, it will run at the higher ratio in the winter but won't start on it, crappy starting system with the glow plugs. Also you need to pull the plugs every 10k miles to clean the coke off them.
I was going to guess that your tank had some crud in it that plugged the filter but I'm going to say starvation on the WMO tank since it runs OK on the stock tank's. Remember that WMO has a higher BTU rating than Dino does.
I filter mine through a 2 micron water separator for 2 hours before filling the tank.

Desert Dually

what in the heck is "RMO"???????????? i never heard that term before


also, your EGT's are likely higher due to the higher BTU's of the oil, versus the BTU's of diesel fuel.

wannadiesel

Well, there's your problem...

Desert Dually

ROTFF!

I'm still trying to get my head around what the "R" stands for in "RMO"...

"Really used Motor Oil"
retarded motor oil
rescued
residual
?

kind of like how "WMO" is an already accepted and widely recognized term, and eventually somebody has to come along and change it or coin a new phrase.

Desert Dually

shorthair, you crack me up!

but regarding "RMO" (lol) heretofore referred to as WMO by the rest of the english speaking world, I think the original poster is likely running too thick of a mixture on an engine and pump with already a good amount of miles of wear on them. Might be a better idea to back off on the amount of WMO/ATF and increase the ratio of #2.
Also like it was mentioned earlier, check and/or replace all the lines and filters etc transporting this gooey concoction from the fuel tank to the injection pump, and you will likely solve the problem.

I am curious if running that high of a concentration of WMO in your fuel can, in time, lead to deposits on the turbocharger's compressor blades.

shorthair

I'm going to say yes as I know from experience from before when I was still brain damaged & owned a ferd with an IDI that the glow plugs will coke up after 10k or so & need to be cleaned otherwise they tend to not heat enough to start.

RoGrrr

Well, lemme introduce youse fellas to the newest term - RMO. I heard it on another board and I kinda like it. That way it sounds more "green" for those enviro-wackos, you know.

RECYCLED MOTOR OIL !

Anyway, I'm now cutting it with some diesel fuel and am still having some problems with the engine going "flat" after a number of miles. I know it isn't the injectors getting clogged since the truck runs well as soon as I switch back to diesel. Just not sure what the problem is.

New problem now. I was running a mix of diesel and RMO (there's that term again. Get used to it) and when I stopped, I noticed that there was fuel dripping out of the rear tank cap. I didn't realize that the return line goes back to the tank that your selector switch is set for. So I've been pumping RMO into the rear tank while I'm driving on the aux tank in the bed. I bid in on a 6-way fuel valve so I can eliminate that problem - run the RMO back into the aux tank.

67HotRod

Are you using dino or synthetic MO? My trucks don't like the synthetic stuff. I've run up to 90% dino MO before without a problem.

shorthair

Since WMO has a higher BTU rating than #2 diesel does your performance should improve not reduce so I don't think the cause is the WMO.

67HotRod

My experience was levels above 50% WMO started to decrease performance.

shorthair

In my old IDI I noticed that when pulling my TT that the same hill that required a drop into 3rd gear on 100% dino that with 90% WMO it would pull the same hill in 4th gear about 15mph faster when starting at the bottom at the same speed. Maybe not a scientific but practical none the less.

Desert Dually

I havent noticed any problems at all running synthetic WMO in my truck. Really, you cannot tell the difference, no extra smoke, no extra smell, none of the drama that people told me to watch out for when attempting to burn synthetic.

just my 2 cents, YMMV

D2 Cat

You started with 100% oil. If/when it bogs down you go to lighter fuel.

Why not start with lighter fuel and keep adding the percentage of oil UNTIL it bogs down. Then you will know the fuel range of YOUR truck.

I've got an '84 with the 6.9 and I run it about 50/50 depending on the weather and I never have had problems. I've started it after setting two months in the winter and still started, but I'd rather not take that chance IF I had to drive it every day.

I keep 100% diesel in the front tank and in cool weather switch from the rear about 15 miles from home as a safety measure.
I'd say experiment, but go leaner on the oil.