Alwaysworking

there longer than fronts and have more arch

Trooperthorn

Its been a while. I got sidetracked working on my cummins ramcharger last summer, and only now finally got back to the crew. It seems life and work got in the way of the important stuff. Anyway, I was planning to put the cummins on this massive engine stand on loan from Alwaysworking. I lifted the engine off the floor and removed the bell housing and clutch assy. I pulled the flywheel as well. Then I had to set the engine down. I didn't have the right bolts to hang it on the stand. Here is a couple picks of the teardown.

farmer0_1

i was out last night cleaning the dust off mine. if i wait until you folks get all the hard stuff figured out it will make it go alot faster for me. i will enjoy this trooperthorn

crewctd

Nothing better than a crewcab cummins.

Alwaysworking

any more done on it?

Trooperthorn

Funny you should ask. I've been kicking aroound in the shop off and on between homework and travel and son's science project.
I tabbed the dowel pin. It drifted in about 1/8 in. or so. Instead of peening the case, this time I made a tab. I also cleaned, locktited, and retorqued the timing case bolts. They were all tight, unlike my ramcharger.


I did trim the case with a chisel for clearance.

Trooperthorn

I also scrubbed up the engine. Forgive me, but to continue with the muscle car theme that I started with the 440 and the the super bee stripe. I went with hemi orange.







Hopefully, tomorrow I will set the engine into the frame.

Alwaysworking

purdy, are you going to paint the valve cover, cover?

Trooperthorn

Time for rear seal replacement.



I started by drilling two 1/8 inch holes in the old seal.


Threading in my slide hammer, I gently tapped with the slide to ease it back.


I worked back and forth between the two holes to ease it out as straight as possible.


Out it is.

Trooperthorn

Now for the install.
I used brake cleaner, rag, and scraper to clean the crank and cover. The crank did not look worn, so I did not opt for the sleeve.

The directions say to put the seal in dry.

The seal comes with a stepped plastic sleeve. This sleeve guides the seal lips onto the crank preventing any folding or pinching.


The kit also comes with an instalation tool. It is a stamped steel ring that gives a driving surface and helps to drive the seal in straight. It also works as a depth guide to insure proper seal depth.


Here is the seal partially in and a view of the intalation tool.


Finally the tool is bottomed out. Upon inspection, I see that the seal lips are installed just beyond the old wear marks so they will seal on fresh surface.
P.S. the installation tool is removed and discarded.

Trooperthorn

Engine on its way to the frame.



Almost there.


After setting the engine, I bolted up the adapter plate.


Next, I bolted up the bell housing. I do not have a clutch yet, but I need to mock things up to do some cross member figuring.

Trooperthorn

So, next, I separated the nv4500 from the 205. I was a little nervous here. I do not know the history of when, how, and why the nv4500 was attached to this engine. I have been woried that the truck was originally an auto and the transfer case would have the 23 spline input shaft which is known not to hold up to the 5 speed pounding.


Oh, happy day. The output/input of the tranny/t-case are both 29 spline. I can check that worry off my list.


Next, I will hang the tranny to see where it meets with the existing cross member.


All bolted into place.

Trooperthorn

Cross member thinkin'.

The black cross member is the original 1977 member in the factory location for the 440/727/203 combo which was the same location for the 360/727/203 combo that the crew cab originally came with. The dirty member is the one from the ctd chassis that was my donor. It is just clamped in there to get my thinker working in the right direction.


The 3x3 thin walled sqare tubing was somebody's excuse for a tranny mount modification. It is riddled with fatigue cracks. Anyway, the shows that the dirty cross member is clamped within an inch of how it was located on the donor. It looks to me that I should be able to move the heavier cross member (dirty one) forward and mount its front two holes in the rear to holes of the original member. This way, I only need to drill 4 new holes and my frame does not end up any more swiss cheesier than it already is. If I remember right, I was able to do the same thing on my ramcharger ctd/518/205 set-up.


I plan to make a new bracket to replace the hunk of square tubing. The factory bracket under the square tube is also cracked at on of the slotted holes. This seems to be a fairly common problem. I know Alwaysworking had a similar issue.


That's all for now. My week-and-a-day-off is over now, so I am back to evenings and homework, but I am pretty pumped now to make progress. If only I could sell my extra rc and a v-8 or two, I might be able to get some parts. (like a clutch). In the mean time, I gues I can alway do body work. That kind of torture is at least cheap.

Alwaysworking

[QUOTE=Trooperthorn;2437208]Cross member thinkin'.



in this picture the trans mount is in wrong on the cummins mount that lip that sticks out toward the front end is saposed to be toward the back and down not toward the front and up like in your picture

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...s/DSCF4512.jpg

farmer0_1

nice work. like the photo's.