Started 6bt crewcab project - Pics on blog.
02-01-2008, 06:42 PM
#16
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Location: cornelius oregon
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we are thinking of keeping the fire engine pea green on our crew cab with black along the bottom of the cab and hood for the no glare. last time i drove it cars got out of the way.
02-02-2008, 06:33 AM
#17
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I assume it was a forest service truck. It was an original 360 auto w/fulltime four wheel drive. Front floors were rusted away, cab above windshield was rusted through, and the bottom of the driver's side doors were flappin' in the wind. I patched it up and painted it about 10 years ago. I used a 1975, 440 powered standard cab as a donor then. When gas was a buck, it was a fun truck.
You've done a LOT of body work. Makes me want to tear into the '74 crew cab that I thought was too far gone. Did you cut & weld the floors or just swap out for another cab? I'll be watching this one too! 
02-02-2008, 02:56 PM
#18
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Above the windshield, I had to cut out about an inch to inch-and-a-half of cancer and graft in new metal almost all the way across. You may notice in some of my picture there is no drip rail across the top of the winshield any more. This area is showing blisters now. and may need more repair.
I also had a hole the size of a fist rusted through way up under the dash above my left foot. This dumped in water anytime it rained. The carpet was always soaked. Since you can't see it from either the inside or the out, I just fiberglassed it. The trick there was to cut an access hole in the airbox on the side behind the rear of the fender. This is the box that develops the notorious first gen cab squeek. I cut three sides of a rectangle then just folded it open like a door. When I was done, I just pushed it closed and welded it back up.
Sorry about the long reply, but I think it is worth mentioning that I am planning to cut the front off of this cab and graft on a new front from an "89 I have in the yard. If I cut it just in front of the seat and just above the windshield, It solves lots of problems. One, I get rid of all the aformentioned rust, and two it corrects some firewall issues. The hole where the heater box passes through the firewall is wrong for the '92 heater box as is the whole for the '92 wiring harness.
02-02-2008, 11:06 PM
#19
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Was that a complete kit from auto to stick? Did you have to mod the T-case?
The kit I am looking at has all but the starter and clutch pedal. It also upgrades the input on the tcase from, I think, 29 to 32 spline to carry the torque that is no longer absorbed by the TQ, but this requires some machine work for a bigger bearing and seal.
The kit I am looking at has all but the starter and clutch pedal. It also upgrades the input on the tcase from, I think, 29 to 32 spline to carry the torque that is no longer absorbed by the TQ, but this requires some machine work for a bigger bearing and seal.
02-02-2008, 11:15 PM
#20
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it was for converting from a getrag, not an auto. it had a new bellhousing, mounts for the x member, and a different mount for the transfer case shifter. no mods to the t case were needed.
02-06-2008, 10:50 PM
#22
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stopped over at trooperthorns house tuesday to kick some tires and get the tour thanks for letting me and my daughter come by. lots of work in front of you to do just wanted to touch bases. anyway wanted to get a before then hopefully i will get an invite to see the after. thanks again. let me know when you need a few extra hands if i am free i will come on by.
02-25-2008, 11:34 PM
#30
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I did. The guy I bought the truck from is a Mopar fanatic from way back. The hood scoop was cut off of a Dodge Challenger and grafted onto the truck hood.