Hello All,
I have read this thread with great interest for months. The reason; I have a very unique 2000 Jeep TJ Wrangler. It has been heavily modified for use by the military with a 103 inch wheelbase, an added 6" to the rear body, Rhino Lined, and dozens of other military-spec upgrades. Most importantly, it has a Cummins B3.3T engine installed- by Cummins of Augusta, Georgia. I am doing some drive line upgrades, so have not driven it a lot since getting it a few months ago, but so far, it has been great. The torque is amazing. I can start out in 4th gear. Top speed with stock AX-15 5-speed is around 75 mph with cruise about 68. They appear to have done a super job with the install. But I have one question: what did you do for brake vacuum? This one has a continously running electric AC Delco pump. I do not like the idea of it running all the time for no reason. I have heard of Hot Rodders running the pump only when the brake pedal is pushed; reliable, but would it be quick enough? Perhaps a takn and pressure switch? Suggestions? The work you have done is amazing, love to hear your suggestions. Alan

 

ohio 3.3 did buy that jeep off of ebay a while back. if it was it nice jeep good buy off of ebay .

 

Welcome to another 3.3 owner! Sounds like a nice ride. How long have you owned it? What type of fuel economy are you getting? Let's see some pictures!

Way back on page 1 of the thread . . .

"Also, I'm using an electric vacuum pump (Stainless Steele Brakes makes it) to run the brake booster so I still have brake assist."

It has a vacuum switch and only runs to build the boost up to a certain point and then shuts off.

I'm guessing since your top speed is 75 that you don't have 3.07 axles?

 

Alan, if you don't mind let me see the esn off that engine. I want to see the differences between the ag engine I have and the military version. Pics would be nice!! What I am going to do with vacuum is purchase a pump from Summit or SS break company like what TDI did. I know the pump from SSBC comes with a switch. He could be very helpful with that. Another thing I was thinking about is installing a vacuum canister and have it check valves at the inlet and outlet this would serve as vacuum storage and would cut down on cycle times.
Also, I would like to check into the pump you are using could you give me some info on that?

 

My YJ had a good sized brake booster canistor already on it. You can see it on the right side in this pic

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06/838364725/

Do you guys not have that on your later model jeeps?

 

Just checked your profile and see you have a couple pics in there. Nice. It also looks like you have a similiar sized brake booster canister as my YJ.

Macet, are you talking about getting a much bigger canister? How big were you thinking?

 

My Jeep doesn't have one. I think I have one off a 79 Ford p/u lying around somewhere I am going to use that.

 

TDI I see, yes I have the same booster/canister as you. What I was thinking about is something that looks like an overgrown Folgers can with two hose barbs on it. Just to increase capacity.

 

Thanks for the replies, guys. I will get more pics posted, along with the pump I'm using. All I know is it is an AC Delco model. It is set to run constant. Engine # I'll post as well. I have an electric fan, and a gear-driven power steering pump, so the belt only needs to run the water pump and alternator.

 

I'd enjoy hearing/seeing some detail about the gear-driven power steering pump. Sounds neat. Looking forward to more of your pictures.

 

I am not sure if I got the correct adapters from Phoenix. I ordered the 18-00361 - SAE 4 to 5.7 GM. I received the 18-00328 Flywheel adapter, cone, SAE 10 X GM 5.7 and 18-00304 - Adapter Ring SAE 4 to GM. I called Jim and he assured me that those are the correct adapters. The Ring fits on the bellhousing. How is the Flywheel Adapter Cone attached to the Cummins flywheel? I assume the six bolts are removed from the existing flywheel and the cone is inverted into the Cummins flywheel and the six bolts re-installed.

I am finally getting around to working on the project. I've been busy with Mom's that I haven't had time to work on the Cherokee. I am hoping to pull the engine this weekend. It's stripped down and ready to pulled with the engine hoist.


Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

I think you got the idea with the flywheel backwards. If you look on page 4 of the flickr photo link there's a pic that should help you. You actually attach the larger diameter end of the cone to the B3.3T and then the smaller diameter end comes out towards the transmission and that's where you attach the automotive flywheel.

If my memory is correct I think I had to buy some bolts (don't remember the size) with lock washers to attach the cone section onto the B3.3T flywheel. Think I also used some loctite.

This was about 2 yrs ago and I don't have my notes in front of me. Maybe one of the guys who've done this more recently can recall that info.

 

The large diameter of the flywheel adapter fits snugly in the recess area of the 3.3 flywheel. The bolts are metric M10 I seem to recall. The smaller diameter cone area is where you bolt your GM flywheel

 

I can make this easy for you let me see the esn so I will know what flywheel housing/ flywheel you have. The 3.3 does not come in a SAE 10 only 3 and 4. Tell me about the Cherokee what original trans/engine do you have, and what you are planning to use? If you are using the AX-15 I may be able to save you some cash.

Should be 8 M10*1.5 in the recessed area. Recessed area should be 314.3mm or 12.37in in dia

 

Sae 4 refers to the bellhousing. Sae 10 refers to the flywheel and yes it is correct because that is how mine was listed. As Macet said though there are different depth engine side housing so definately check your spacing. That is where I ran into trouble