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81 Chevy w/ a 12 valve

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Old 02-25-2008, 11:24 PM
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How much are you looking to spend on an engine ?
Old 02-26-2008, 12:22 AM
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Actually, FINALLY found and bought one today! My first purchase ever on e-bay. Some of you might have seen it, its a 97 12v the money was up to 1050 at the time and the guy had his phone # listed. Called him and offered 1350. plus 150. for shipping. The 1500. is less than i expected to pay. Thats always good, but its comming out of pensulvania[sorry cant spell great] i also thought the frieght was resonable being im in texas. Its missing a few things, turbo, intake elboe, alt. and mount i believe. Of these the only thing i really care about is the alt and mount, hope i can find these easily? What do you have for sale, bought right someone says something the day i buy one, ive been looking hard for over a month! ha ha really though what do you have, know several others that might want me to do them one of these later, i think its really fixing to catch on big time around here., hope so....any way just finishing up on the little body work it needed will try to put paint on her this week or weekend. Not sure how long to get engine but all going well now. Fun project for sure, hope it runs like i expect it to. Just so unsure what it will weigh, have decided to leave off the front end for now and run it the first weekend w/o it and weight it like that also to see where i am. Still need to fiqure this picture thing out and post a couple for you guys. Later Ryan
Old 02-28-2008, 07:25 PM
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Engine on the way sceduled for tomorrow, and ordered all the perf. goodies today! Wow they nearly give all these diesel perf. parts away you know it. Any way, got the HTT 66/71/13 stainless steel with the polished compressor, full cut delivery valves, edm 435's, del. valve socket, arp studs 12mm, 4k gsk, 60# valve springs, afc spring kit, .20 marine H.Gasket, HTT exh. manifold w/ kit, overflow valve, HX40 weld flange and V-clamp and will grind my own plate to a zero. Does that sound like a tune up that will work or what!
Old 02-28-2008, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stock600
Engine on the way sceduled for tomorrow, and ordered all the perf. goodies today! Wow they nearly give all these diesel perf. parts away you know it. Any way, got the HTT 66/71/13 stainless steel with the polished compressor, full cut delivery valves, edm 435's, del. valve socket, arp studs 12mm, 4k gsk, 60# valve springs, afc spring kit, .20 marine H.Gasket, HTT exh. manifold w/ kit, overflow valve, HX40 weld flange and V-clamp and will grind my own plate to a zero. Does that sound like a tune up that will work or what!
Sounds like enough to twist that chevy 1/2 ton in half .
Old 02-28-2008, 11:57 PM
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Is it a 180 or 215hp engine? Good find.
Old 02-29-2008, 11:28 AM
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Unfort. i found out its a 180, i just started a thread on 12v asking the diff. in the two pumps, i hope im still alright and wont hert me any for power. Also very curious what all extra on the pump for the auto kick down and all that crap i will not need, hope it can use be pulled off? Should be here today around 1:00- happy days- any suggestions- ill prob. pull the head later today and start polishing and generally cleaning the engine getting it ready for studs, marine gaskets etc....... and freash high gloss black paint off course! Thinking of getting the valve covers chromed any one else done this, or are they thin and could warp??? Any thoughts..
Old 03-03-2008, 07:19 PM
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Got the truck painted sat. morning all turned out pretty good, have the spray liner scedueled for in a few days when the paint is cured. Got engined all cleaned up and head removed and disasembled, all looks very good. Pistons and cyl. walls show to be the 49,000 miles that were claimed. Got a 35 dollar front cover kit and killed the d. pin. That thing was worked prob. close to half way! Knocked it in with a punch and made a tab from sheet metal and lock tight the bolt next to it in, all good. Stamped the rocker pedastels and removed when pulling the head engine looks like new on the inside, read the instructions on the arp studs..... is this machine work ness. is everyone else having to do this. I wasnt expecting that, i thought i would have read it by now somewhere, what will hit if not done and can the bolt holes be tapped a little deeper to resolve this? Any other tips on installing the 12mm arp studs? Thanks guys
Old 03-06-2008, 11:16 PM
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Finished up the port work on the head and HTT manifold, got prob. around 8-9 hours in that alone but really looks good should make lots of differance. Did a valve job and reassembled the head earlier w/ the new 60# springs. Prepped block and got new .20 gasket in place with arp studs. Finished the machine work on the rocker blocks, plan to reassemble top end sat.- man that head is heavy! Tapped the 4 holes and installed 1/8" plugs were the grid heater bolts went into the intake, and got the engine all cleaned up and freash high gloss black paint job. Really fun project, cant wait to hear her run.
Old 03-07-2008, 08:06 PM
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Ya, I dont know what is more fun, building the projects are waiting to hear them and drive them. Nice build BTW

Jon
Old 03-17-2008, 04:58 PM
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Small update, got the engine in and mounts built looks real good in there. Only set back was, i had to relocate the fuel filter canister. It was a pain because of the hard fuel lines involved. It would have been easier if i could have found barbed fittings for the fuel pump, inj. pump, and filter housing, then i could have used rubber hose. I ended up cutting the ends and useing rolled soft copper [ sorry im a a/c/ guy ] it should work good and it looks fine- even better when i get them painted black i suppose. The little return line off the injectors is what threw me, i wanted to just sweat on a barbed fitting and tee it in with the retun from the p-pump to the tank- but found the fitting on the filter housing where it normally goes to have a big resriction built into it. I was worried about changing this design so i lengthened the small line over to the new location and tied it back in as it was stock. Measured for a driveshaft, will get that this week sometime. Ending up going with the stock chevy gas pedal and cable system, was able to make it work easier than any thing else id found. Went ahead and replaced the PS pump and bought the high press. hose for the 81 chevy with a 350 gas motor and it fits well, just rubber hosed the return. Theres a 3rd place on the pump for a hose, i think its for a hydro boost but not sure i suppose i could just block it off? Does anyone know for sure? Couldnt find the seal in the vac. pump that the PS pump seals against- hope it dont leak, just installed with out replacing it. Only thing still waiting for is the special low stall convertor thats small enough to fit in the ultra bell, it should be ready in a couple days. The UB will only hold a 10.5" or smaller convertor so there was an issue there, i sure didnt want 'to' loose of a conv. Having fun and alls going well, it want be long.......
Old 03-24-2008, 11:22 PM
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Got the convertor and installed it along with custom driveshaft, and finally fiqured out how to adj. the timing- made brackets and got that done and adjusted to 18.0*. Got a afco alum. radiator and installed with all custom made mounts and hoses, took 4 hoses to make the upper and lower but they look and fit well. Pretty much down to battery and box, battery and ignition wiring, mounting a electric fan and wiring it, and filling with #2 and bleeding a lots of air and try to bust her off. Oh and run the shifter cable and drill and tap the int. for the nos fogger nozzle, and mounting the bottle/brackets. Still a little ways to go but down to the little time consuming things that I take my time on so that all looks nice.
Old 03-27-2008, 11:43 PM
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Got her running this evening, sure sounds good. One romp on the go pedal and it cleared me out of the shop for 10 minutes, from the street it looked like the whole shop was on fire. A walk in door was open and the 2 bay doors were cracked a few feet the way the smoke was rolling out you's swear the think was burning to the ground. Is was so funny, neibors that has been following the build that think im half crazy anyway came running over and said well you spent all that time on it the last several weeks and its going to burn up in that fire! I laughed so hard. Quess its time to adj. the afc huh? The throttle response seemed to be unreal quick though, seems to have several fuel drips and leaks to address around the injectors and return lines. I will be pulling off the slicks and putting on a couple trailer tires this weekend to drive around {rock roads} the house to see how she does. Im betting those 4-5" wheels look rather odd under there replacing those 20" wide slicks! Should be fun, hope there enough rubber left on the tires to pull the truck to the track later, he he
Old 03-31-2008, 02:10 PM
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Well, i got to put several miles on her sat and sun, had a bad time with the timing slipping but due to the help of several people on this forum i got that behind me now. Truck runs good....to good i have a huge egt issue. Im looking to downsize the delivery valves in quest for more managable temps, thier to out of control to even take to the track and test and tune in my opinion. AND the convertor isnt going to work either, its way to loose. You have to stand on it to where the temps are to high to even start to lock up. Ya you can criuse around and its aright but blipping the trottle just gives huge clouds of smoke and no snappy taking off. Id say it wants to stall up in the 3800-4000 range and im wanting more in the 13-1500 area. Its just all the stinking torq. heck its a 11" conv. tightened up by Art Carr now?? Either way i expected tuning problems thier just part of a monster grage type of build you know. Ill deal with them and hopfully get them ironed out soon so i can take her to the track for the real test. Later
Old 03-31-2008, 02:18 PM
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I had Art Carr(I am told it is just a name now and not the original) build the converter for my turbo gasser. I gave them all the specs and what I wanted...it was dead nuts on. They will guarantee the stall speed and will rebuild it at any time for $100, or at least that was the deal when I got mine. I think it was $325 shipped to my door and was the nicest converter I had seen. Craftsmaship was 10:1 over TCI. The back plate, hub and mounting flanges are machined from one piece. The guys I dealt with are in Abilene, TX....might give them a call.

I am also curious why you want to pull fuel so quickly. Once you get a good converter and can load the engine enough to light the turbo, it may be a different story. As it is now you are just flooding it with fuel and have no chance of the turbo lighting.
Old 03-31-2008, 04:41 PM
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Well i think i agree with you to a point, over in the 12v section you can read some other discussion on the topic that i didnt want to duplicate. But basicly a guy rode with me to help watch gauges so i could give it a hard 4-5 sec. run, [acually he videoed it] but basicly soon as i mated it both the pyro and boost pegged. the boost is a 0-60 and yes the pro is a 0-2000 not 1500. Nedless to say i cant ever let that happen again. Ill do what ever i have to do to get the temp in check then i can sneak up on the power later. Its a big learning and tuning curve for me. Looking for some milder DV's to try if anyone has some they would sell me or let me borrow i would make it right with you. Thanks Ryan


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