My truck finally got enough miles on it for me to switch to synthetic. So in went Amsoil HDD and a bypass.

I looked thru all the bypass threads and found some nice places to mount it, but either the EaBP-110 was too long, I don't have a aftermarket intake, or I have the OEM Jake. So I went with where my dad mounted his, on the pass frame rail. Looking at my dads it was great, but he only had a skid across the bottom, and I really wanted the leading edge covered, so I made a cardboard example last weekend and took it to the local machine shop, 4 days and $40 later I had a skid. I wanted 3/16 alum, but they were out so he used 1/4"... talk about beefy.

As far as the bypass kit itself I did the pricing on getting the BMK-11, or just the mount and getting the fittings and hoses locally... I saved about $30 getting it all locally, so all I ordered from amsoil was the mount and the oil cap adapter. So on friday I stopped by the parker store and got 10' of hose for measuring. I then held the skidplate to the frame and drilled and tapped the holes for the skid.




I then bolted it up, loosely, and figured out where to put the filter mount. Once I had that marked I removed the skid and drilled the first hole. I then printed the BMK-11 instructions with a 1:1 scale of the mounting holes, cut the center hole out and bolted it to the hole I had drilled and tapped. I then center punched the second hole, drilled and tapped it. Cut the next hole from the template out and center punched the 3rd hole, drilled and tapped... I mocked it all up and made sure everything fit, which it did (after a little filing, my center punch must have walked a little.).. Time to mock the hoses up, so I ran the hose from the mount to the engine oil filter housing (where there is a 1/8 port on top.. makes it REALLY easy), and marked the hose. I moved the hose to the oil filter cap and did the same, then uninstalled everything.... Now I wait for Monday...

Fast Fwd to this morning, I get up and go to the parker store, get some fittings, do some pre-coffee math (it actually worked) and told him what lengths to cut the hose, and crimp the ends... And back to the house... I bolted the mount to the frame, put the fitting in the oil cap, screwed that in place, and put the fitting in the oil filter housing. I used 1/8" NPT to -4 female JIC everywhere. I then ran the hoses (where I found that math can be done pre-coffee) and tightened them all down. I then zip tied the hoses clear of the exhaust and suspension, added 1.5 qts of oil and fired it up. The filter was dry, because of the horizontal attitude I couldn't pre fill it. It took about 20 seconds with the engine idling to fill the filter, and oil came out the cap... I let it run for another minute, and shut it off. While I waited for the oil to drain I checked for leaks and bolted the skid plate up, no leaks and it all fit great... I checked the oil, added another .5 qt (Now about 13-14 qts in the system) and went for a test drive to get oil pressure up. No leaks, and my engine will be much happier....



I added a "T" here so I can put a oil psi sender in down the road, thanks to the OEM idiot gauge.








Just the right amount of clearance

 

Nice write up! What is the relationship between synthetic and miles on engine? I look forward to seeing the photos later tonight. My work computer filters out most the photos on the DTR for some reason.

 

My work does the same thing... luckilly today is my day off...

Amsoil claims you can add synthetic after 1 oil change interval, but I have always waited until 10K on a gasser and 12-15K on a diesel, I hit 13K last week. This helps the motor breaking better as synthetic is much slipperier than dino oil, and it slows the breakin process down.

 

Nice setup.

 

I feel the relationship between regular oil and synthetic is an old wives tale. Not trying to stir things up but look at how many vehicles come from the factory with synthetic right off the assembly floor.

 

nice install by the way!! great attention to detail.

 

Nice install..... I put mine up under my front end replacement bumper. I need to build a skid plate for it though....

Only prob I see with your set up is changing filters will be messy

 

Nice work & nice photos. I am loving that shield. What do you have into it total? I always liked that FS2500 set up, but it was too much money for me. It cut into my speed part list too hard.

Also, what does the filter cost, how often do you think you are going to change it, and what micron is it?

NICE WORK!!!!!
Thanx for sharing.

 

Yeah, but those aren't your everyday motors either... granted rings have come a long way, but look how long these motors take to break in, the manual claims at least 6K.. I think I'll stick with dino for a while.. besides I like frequent oil changes the first 10K, too much $$ with synthetic...

That it will be, but at least its not often.

I would guess, including the first filter, I have about $200 into the whole setup... which really isn't too bad for what you get.

The filter costs about $35 plus shipping (dealer/preferred pricing).. It translates to a $175 oil change once a year or 20K miles(ish).

The filter is rated absolute (98.7%) at 2 microns. They come in 6, 8, and 10" filters, the 110 is the 10" filter.

 

super smooth.