Who here runs an NADP built automatic?
........mainly because I could never break it, as long as theres oil in it. its all gear drive, cast steel case. much smaller than going to a 273. I don't know what a 273 weighs but the 205 is aprox 175lbs but very compact. Some people might say the low range is "only" 1.96:1.........to that I SAY I've got 600 horse power and I don't care. I'll probably only ever use High range anyways, at the track or in the winter.. and at one point I had 4 of them in my garage, and a retarded monkey could rebuild one {thats me} 
I have a 241 light duty t-case in my truck, I don't expect is to last forever.

I have a 241 light duty t-case in my truck, I don't expect is to last forever.
I like the higher stall converters. They allow your turbo to spool faster. Once your TC is locked up its doesn't matter if you have a low stall or high stall. 1800 to 2000 rpm is a good number, but it has to be efficent when in the stall speed (excessive heat). Mike, I live in Airdrie. If you want to chat, I could PM you my ph#. I can show you my collection of turbos. I've run low stall, medium stall but never ran a race converter. PDR had one that stalled at 2600 rpm and the convert was really a race piece. It would really help your 60ft times as your HP is way higher at 2600 rpm than 1400 rpm. It would sweet to waste 5.0 stang off the line without boost launching.
Mike,
That would be great!
I don't like my low stall 91% because it is a dog off the line with a trailer on; even just empty it takes a bit to get going. My EGT's are pretty high cruising on the highway in lock up. It goes into lock up almost immediately after I get into OD. PM me your number.
That would be great!
I don't like my low stall 91% because it is a dog off the line with a trailer on; even just empty it takes a bit to get going. My EGT's are pretty high cruising on the highway in lock up. It goes into lock up almost immediately after I get into OD. PM me your number.
You can also control the front and rear outputs pretty easy. So when Luke blows up his rearend, he can put the rear in neutral and front in high and limp it home (or do what my co worker did, and drive on it for about 1500 km).
Marine mike, if you put in bigger sticks it would help in the spool-up but your EGT's would go up. I'm supprised that your egt's are that high with that turbo you have. I ran 90rwhp on the stock HY-35 turbo and towed. It was hot and I don't recommend it but I did it. What kinda of boost #'s you pulling at wot? You might have a boost leak and that might be part of the issue.
If you can find a "good looking" and "single" woman in GP, good luck!
I hate to say this out loud, but my extended stays in GP usually involved good looking married women, lonely because hubbies were in the bush working.

And.....flash a wad of cash.......that's all they're concerned with up there. You can be the quasimodo of the group, but have a huge bank account, model material will sniff it out in Alberta.


Yup twin sticking a 205 involves a pulling the shift rails, a grinder and about 20 minutes.....oh and a new shifter setup too.
Marine mike, if you put in bigger sticks it would help in the spool-up but your EGT's would go up. I'm supprised that your egt's are that high with that turbo you have. I ran 90rwhp on the stock HY-35 turbo and towed. It was hot and I don't recommend it but I did it. What kinda of boost #'s you pulling at wot? You might have a boost leak and that might be part of the issue.
My boost will go up to 40 FAST and EASY. No boost leak there.
It must be the smarty pushing up your egt's at wot. You should have lots of turbo for those sticks. If you pulling 40+psi, it must be working good for you. Sounds odd to be running size 90 sticks and pull high egt's. I had a set of old BD90's and ran them with my twins. My numbers where 1000 to 1100 deg's and very little smoke with my box on 5X5. Running the smarty it smoked but wasn't nothing ugly. I've ran BD125 and they would break 1100 - 1200 deg's on the twins. My boost numbers where low 40's at wot. A good street truck that you could forget about gauges and just drive the truck.
I have the Smarty on stock setting. With just the Comp on 2x2 I can hit 1200 deg so easy it is ridiculous.
You'll see when I see you.
I should have went with the twins when I had the money.
I even sent the EGT gauge back to Isspro and Dan said it was working fine.
You'll see when I see you.
I should have went with the twins when I had the money.
I even sent the EGT gauge back to Isspro and Dan said it was working fine.
cam some break down th auto models for me by year? like 47rh 47re 48re......I've got a bud here that may want to trade auto for stick. his is a '98 or '99 too.
What tranny would that be> and which one do I want to build up....like do I want to get a 48 to put in are they better? or a built 47 is just as good........
anyone want to take a crack at that?
What tranny would that be> and which one do I want to build up....like do I want to get a 48 to put in are they better? or a built 47 is just as good........
anyone want to take a crack at that?
Luke, 98-2001's got the 47re:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/4xre.htm
1994-97's got the 47rh:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/4xrh.htm
The 48 is probably marginally better but for what you are going to do to it, probably isnt worth spending the extra $ on.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/4xre.htm
1994-97's got the 47rh:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/4xrh.htm
The 48 is probably marginally better but for what you are going to do to it, probably isnt worth spending the extra $ on.
AFAIK, 94-95 was the RH, 96-03 was the 47RE, and 03+ is 48RE. I'm pretty sure 03 was a split year with the 47RE on the 235 or whatever engines were in SO trucks. Just like you could get an NV4500 in the 03's.







