If you tow - you should not do anything without a pyrometer and boost guage.

Guys spend hours on dynos tweaking and tweaking things to get everything just right. Thats one of the troubles with a 12V - you or your mechanic has to know what they are doing or it will never be what you want.

 

Pulling the plate and pushing the AFC forward will get you the 300hp you're after. GSK and a timing bump will help. If you mod the AFC, then you can actually tune some of the low end smoke out, which will help with EGT's when accelerating.

 

With my 97, just the stock plate moved forward and AFC moved up was probably good for about 280 hp. Gauges were nice to have as the power was just about the limit for the turbo so EGTS weren't crazy.

#10 plate on the same setup put it around 330 hp (as advertised by TST) but was toasty.

If it were me, 3K GSK and modding the stock plate would be the best bang for the buck as well as a boost elbow. That would be a respectable 300ish Hp and not too terrible towing.

We should do coffee..

 

id be happy to meet some of my fellow shade tree mechanics.
is that boost elbow just a 90* air fitting?
she is more of a daily driver then a towwer, but shes also getta get a cord of wood outa the bush and the lastest trophy too. i dont ask too much from my trucks.

 

Boost elbow..

This is basically a boost bleed type regulator to control your wastegate opening pressure. Typically with the stock HX turbo, 35-38 psi is ideal.

 

I removed the tee from my AFC so it disabled the wastegate. Free and easy, and when you step up to an aftermarket turbo, you're gonna end up doing that anyway.

 

My boost Tee is also in.Came with my 3K kit..Just a ornament because my wastegate is blocked..

 

When I ran just the stock plate I just put a pinch on the WG line. The boost elbow came with the #10 plate so I put it in. I have since capped off the cross over tubing and removed it for the WG as the S300 came with the WG port in the comp housing. Still use the elbow however to tune the boost.

 

stock RPM cut off is 2700 RPMs?
how did you block the waste gate?
the #10 plate is the same as sliding the plate forward isnt it? and a #00 is the same as with out a plate at all?
when you are tuning the boost, how are you doin that? in the afc housing or where youve got it pinched?

 

1. About 2700 Rpm is the defuel for the stock 215 pump.
2. You can either take the hose off the wastegate and plug the line or I just used a heater hose clamp.
3. No, moving the stock plate forward doesn't give the same fuel or profile. The shape and depth of the cut into the fuel plate determines the fuel at a certain RPM. The stock plate is fairly flat with a few steps but even moving it full forward is about 50% of the fuel the #10 can provide. There are many posts here about the different plate profiles but basically a #0 plate is full fuel throughout the RPM range and is only controlled by the AFC spring pressure. The #10 has a parabolic profile and tends to defuel at higher RPM.
4. Tuning the boost is about trying to balance the boost to the EGT's. For my S300 I wasn't really sure where the limit was so I have tried a little more and a little less boost to try and find where the EGT's are best controlled. Right now its around 45. But still EGT is not where I want it.

Hope that helps.

 

My 215 pump would stop fueling around 2100 rpm's and would rev lame till 3000 rpm's. That pump really wants the 4kgsk installed, but its a fresh engine. I think I would pull the plate and just throw it back in for when you tow the RV.

I would pull the hose on the wastegate actuvator on the turbo and put a plug in the hose. A stock 215 engine, with a near stock pump, I doubt you have much more boost than 40psi. The AFC is for smoke control and is adjustable. The plate is just another fuel restriction for the rack travel.

You need #60 valve springs if you run the 4k's.