Southbend Clutch is in...
#1
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Southbend Clutch is in...
Long day yesterday but it's in....
A huge thanks to Alex M. for all his help & huge help in stabbing the trans back in. Much appreciated.
Even with my 2wd, the dual disk Southbend makes it tough to line everything up until it all slips into place.
Thanks also to Tate for lending me his excellent tranny jack. That thing works awesome even with a 350lb NV5600 on it.
If it's ok I'll hang onto for a few more days to make sure all is ok, then I will return to you or where ever you want it delivered.
If you need it sooner, let me know & I'll deliver right away.
All is not perfect though as the new rear trans seal popped loose during the 1st test drive.
The back of the trans has been wet for the last 6 months or more so I installed a new rear seal while I had the trans out.
Not sure why it popped loose but I had to yank the driveshaft again, I glued the seal in place & will let it dry for a couple of days before re-installing the drive shaft.
Thankfully the engine rear main seal was & is fine.
The clutch is the "street" SB 3250 dual disk.
Moderately heavier pedal than stock, the expected slight rattle at idle with the clutch pedal depressed. Slightly more difficult to shift, hopefully it will loosen up.
I still have the stock hydraulic clutch assembly in the truck but have the upgraded SB hydraulic kit ready to install if needed.
I'll drive it a 2-3 weeks to make sure all is ok then the next upgrade parts should be here. (Adding to Harry's (Peak Diesel) kids' university fund again!)
Still haven't figured out what to do about my suspension, still researching that.
A huge thanks to Alex M. for all his help & huge help in stabbing the trans back in. Much appreciated.
Even with my 2wd, the dual disk Southbend makes it tough to line everything up until it all slips into place.
Thanks also to Tate for lending me his excellent tranny jack. That thing works awesome even with a 350lb NV5600 on it.
If it's ok I'll hang onto for a few more days to make sure all is ok, then I will return to you or where ever you want it delivered.
If you need it sooner, let me know & I'll deliver right away.
All is not perfect though as the new rear trans seal popped loose during the 1st test drive.
The back of the trans has been wet for the last 6 months or more so I installed a new rear seal while I had the trans out.
Not sure why it popped loose but I had to yank the driveshaft again, I glued the seal in place & will let it dry for a couple of days before re-installing the drive shaft.
Thankfully the engine rear main seal was & is fine.
The clutch is the "street" SB 3250 dual disk.
Moderately heavier pedal than stock, the expected slight rattle at idle with the clutch pedal depressed. Slightly more difficult to shift, hopefully it will loosen up.
I still have the stock hydraulic clutch assembly in the truck but have the upgraded SB hydraulic kit ready to install if needed.
I'll drive it a 2-3 weeks to make sure all is ok then the next upgrade parts should be here. (Adding to Harry's (Peak Diesel) kids' university fund again!)
Still haven't figured out what to do about my suspension, still researching that.
#2
Registered User
Congrats! I love my 3250! It does shift harder, but I think it's the nature of the beast. I'm doing a full rebuild of my 4500 soon, so I'll see how fresh syncros help. Upgrading to the better hydros did not help. Making up a slightly longer clutch pushrod did. Wait untill your first boosted 3rd gear burnout...wheeeee!!!!!
#3
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Don't bet on it, mine didn't, even with the upgraded hydralics it still shifts like crap. It WILL however hold while pulling a 17k trailer with the Edge and Smarty stacked.....
#4
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My 12v has that clutch, and it feels just like stock. It does shift slower, but I'll take that in the knowing that it'll hold what I'm swinging at it, and take 3rd gear launches. We'll see if the next clutch is the same once the G56 goes in.
You can hang onto the jack for a while if you need it. I'll let you know when I need it, probably do the swap after the dyno day.
You can hang onto the jack for a while if you need it. I'll let you know when I need it, probably do the swap after the dyno day.
#6
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the comments on the clutch Gents. I agree that the dual disk will have some drawbacks & that's the way it is.
My tranny never shifts fast anyway no matter how hard I jam the gears.
My truck is just a street truck that pulls our 5th wheel in the summer. It just needs a bit more pulling power & I'm tired of driving my the pyro..
I still haven't put the driveshaft back in... I'll wait for the sealant on the trans seal to fully cure.
So I went from wrenching on my truck to piddling with my RV blinds today.
What a test of patience to replace the strings on a few blinds. Laying under my truck for a full day was way less frustrating.
The RV to do list is still too long:
- finish reinforcing up the entry steps mount.
- RV solar kit is on the way to Sweetgrass, hopefully install 2 x 100W solar panels & controller this fall.
- winterize it, wash wax, cover it for the winter.
The truck to do list is longer yet but I have gotten most of my home chores done...
I need a long w/end to recover from my long w/end!!
#7
Registered User
I know how it is. My project for the weekend was to strip and reseal the roof and install a roof top AC unit.
AC unit was a breeze but 4 hours on a grinder with a wire wheel was testing my paitence. Still have a few more coats of sealer to go on but thats quick and easy. Roof rack and solar panel need to go back on as well.
Then there is new tires, check the brakes, fix some marker lights. All before the big trip to Moab Utah in October.
Then there is the list for the truck and Jeep as well....
AC unit was a breeze but 4 hours on a grinder with a wire wheel was testing my paitence. Still have a few more coats of sealer to go on but thats quick and easy. Roof rack and solar panel need to go back on as well.
Then there is new tires, check the brakes, fix some marker lights. All before the big trip to Moab Utah in October.
Then there is the list for the truck and Jeep as well....
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#8
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Joe, I run a single 100 watt unit. It works pretty decently. My voltage controller/regulator is done up at the solar panel. You going to use an inverter? If you want to use everything, you'll probably need a 1600 to 2000 watt inverter and a few more batteries. My brother has six golf cart 6 volt batteries in his trailer. I did my RV repairs last spring. I had abit of hail damage to my roof.
#9
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yeah wait till you do your first 3rd gear launch( or burnout in your case haha), i've got to much grip with my tires to get em to break loose so my truck just pulls. I went with the southbend 3600 dd and i am very happy with it. Got 7000k on it now and it still shifts slow even when jamming on it. Mine doesn't rattle because i have a new disc design with rubber pucks in the disk. Holds all the power and is very smooth engagement even with the trailer. I had to upgrade my hydraulics and the pedal is still stiffer than my old luk clutch.
#10
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Joe, I run a single 100 watt unit. It works pretty decently. My voltage controller/regulator is done up at the solar panel. You going to use an inverter? If you want to use everything, you'll probably need a 1600 to 2000 watt inverter and a few more batteries. My brother has six golf cart 6 volt batteries in his trailer. I did my RV repairs last spring. I had abit of hail damage to my roof.
I just have 2x 6volt golf cart batteries & a small 1000W inverter. I won't be trying to live off the grid, just keep the batteries topped up for a week while boondocking without having to worry about them.
While 1x 100W panel would have been fine, might as well install 2 panels & then forget about it.
yeah wait till you do your first 3rd gear launch( or burnout in your case haha), i've got to much grip with my tires to get em to break loose so my truck just pulls. I went with the southbend 3600 dd and i am very happy with it. Got 7000k on it now and it still shifts slow even when jamming on it. Mine doesn't rattle because i have a new disc design with rubber pucks in the disk. Holds all the power and is very smooth engagement even with the trailer. I had to upgrade my hydraulics and the pedal is still stiffer than my old luk clutch.
Hey Brad, did you ever dyno your truck after the twins, injectors & all your other upgrades? Hopefully you will be in Red Deer next Sunday & will run it then.
My truck will never be high HP truck so the southbend DD 3250lb will be fine for me...
#11
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Joe, you may want to add more batteries to store the power up, your inverter will work better. I run a single 100 watt unit (2 12volt deep cycles RV batteries) and just use various different cheap inverters ranging from 150-300watts. You wouldn't believe how much better your batteries will function when you use the solar panels.
I don't want to buy a big amp inverter to run everything (aka I'm cheap). If I need big power for the micowave or TV, I just fire up the generator. My dad has a chuck of land off the grid up by Peigan lake, so it helps keeps my heater going at night and I don't have run the genny.
I don't want to buy a big amp inverter to run everything (aka I'm cheap). If I need big power for the micowave or TV, I just fire up the generator. My dad has a chuck of land off the grid up by Peigan lake, so it helps keeps my heater going at night and I don't have run the genny.
#12
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I just have 2x 6volt golf cart batteries & a
Hey Brad, did you ever dyno your truck after the twins, injectors & all your other upgrades? Hopefully you will be in Red Deer next Sunday & will run it then.
My truck will never be high HP truck so the southbend DD 3250lb will be fine for me...
Hey Brad, did you ever dyno your truck after the twins, injectors & all your other upgrades? Hopefully you will be in Red Deer next Sunday & will run it then.
My truck will never be high HP truck so the southbend DD 3250lb will be fine for me...
no i haven't dynoed it yet and it's looking like i wont be able to make it this sunday, but i will be planning on dynoing it when we do the abdiesels/armor inc gtg.
#13
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What are you looking to do with your suspension? Smooth it out? https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t273182.html Those sulastics can work wonders. Maybe pop in that thread and check 'em out. Google them as well, tons of guys are using those pieces and are very pleased with the results.
#14
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Sorry you can't make it, Brad, I was hoping to see your truck run...
ABDiesels/Armor GTG??? I missed that memo, when is that planned for?
Congrats on the clutch! Being able to hold the power you got give you the warm fuzzies......well either that or wood
What are you looking to do with your suspension? Smooth it out? https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t273182.html Those sulastics can work wonders. Maybe pop in that thread and check 'em out. Google them as well, tons of guys are using those pieces and are very pleased with the results.
What are you looking to do with your suspension? Smooth it out? https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t273182.html Those sulastics can work wonders. Maybe pop in that thread and check 'em out. Google them as well, tons of guys are using those pieces and are very pleased with the results.
Thanks Sandaholic. Been driving the truck regularily & the clutch is either loosening up or I'm just getting used to it and the rear trans seal is now fine.
My truck is 2wd, I want to lower it while still being able tow fairly heavy.
I think the heavier Supersprings front coils cut down to my desired ride height will do for the front but still researching what I will do for the rear.
The plan was to mock up the wheel/tire combo I want at the same time I lower it but the wheels I wanted are no longer available.
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