ABDTR #5 Alberta Chapter #5 Discussion

shot peening

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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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shot peening

So I have a set of 12v rods coming from a freind down south, but they are just stock, so I need to get them shot peened. I found a place in Edmonton that will cryo for a reasonable price. Who can do shot peening in Alberta? Also who can do fly cuts on pistons?
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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I used to work at an independant engine shop in Calgary that had a peener. we used lead shot at the time IIRC. That was 8 years ago though.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 09:23 PM
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Kev, have the rods been worked any amount? Polishing or balancing? There are some cheaper outfit in the states. Up here man we get worked over on this stuff.

Hate to say this but you probably will need to balance the crank. 6.7L parts weigh different than the older stuff. Also post some pics on the rods. I think the best 12V rods are the england rods or german stuff. There are guys that like the mexician rods. Either way would be to document what your are going to run, as if they survive with you at the wheel, they should be plenty good for the rest of us low power guys.

Keep us posted buddy.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 10:52 PM
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The crank was balanced before,, so I imagine it still will be.. the rods were a donation, so they are the best ones,, lol I am so grateful to Ron Allen, he gave me a set of rods and pistons for my engine, rings, keepers etc... I am just waiting for them to show up right now

What do you guys thing if I was just to get them cryo'd and not peened?
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:23 PM
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I wouldn't. peen them first than cryo treat. peening removes all external stress points. they would theoretically be much stronger if peened before cryo treating.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by morkable
lol I am so grateful to Ron Allen,
That guy is my hero!
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 1-5-3-6-2-4
I wouldn't. peen them first than cryo treat. peening removes all external stress points. they would theoretically be much stronger if peened before cryo treating.
peening, also work hardens the surface. Polishing the rod, basically removes some of the surface hardening. You need decent shot to peen the rods with, and will probably need a few cycles to bring back the factory surface prep.

Cyro, is for stress relieving of the metal and for increased metal stablity.

As for polishing the rods, I've removed 70grams from each rod. Plus your pistons are different, but this isn't going to a high miler engine, so you'll be ok.

Kev, you should get Tate to do some measuring for ya. It would be interesting to see how that engine was built. I can't remember what kinda of gridle your going to use. I bought one from Haisley and its junk. I'm going to build my own. I think all you really need is a decent gridle, so the mains will not walk/move, and cause the rods to spit out.

12V/24VP rods are plenty beefy, for most of us...
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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Peen, Balance, Cryo is the last process.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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I realize that this is the best method,,, I am just in a severe cash crunch right now, so I am seeing what I can and cant get away with if you know what I mean......
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Could try sand blasting the rods with heavy sand? Helps to smoothen out the rough edges.

There should be someone up there Kev, with a shot peen machine? Basically its a bead blasting device with shot material. You probably only get the mininum of depth pentration, so you only get a small level of additional protection. I would say at least run good high end rod bolts, probably run them as is. I'm sure you'll be fine, worst case you might dump some parts on the track, not like you've never done that before

They made lots of 6.7L's, so they are start to become easier to find.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 06:11 PM
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Thats kinda what I am thinking,, if I break this one, the turbos etc still will be good. I have a diaper to catch parts now,, lol. And if I blow it up I can get a block and head that isnt fire ringed,, lol
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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Kev, you going to do any measuring when the motor goes together? Found out today, that its pretty important. At least buy some plastic gauge, just used some on my engine. Got 3 to 3.5thou on the mains and 2 to 2.5 on the rods. The pistons clearance is around 5 to 6 thou. Next engine I want to get a few more measuring tools, just makes things so much easier. Tate sure came in handy with tools, sure helped out lots. Sure learned a few neat tricks with Brett today, learned a few do's and don'ts.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:24 PM
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yeah going to measure lots,, I am hoping Tate can help me out with that.. he is so handy
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 06:39 PM
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I would buy a complete cummins gasket kit, I bought a non cummins kit for my 12V engine, half the gaskets aren't in the kit anyways, give me time to do some cleaning today. Kev how apart is your engine? I would mark the mains with the direction on how they come off. The numbers on the rods have to face the oil cooler. I had one engine, come back from the machine shop with the mains cap in backwards Brett and I yesterday spent a few hours trying to figure what happen to the bearing clearance.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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It is pretty much fully apart,, havent pulled the cam out yet, but thats about it. I dont think I am going to have to send the block in, I think that just honeing it will do the job
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