The numbers on the mains go towards the oil cooler. There is a number 7 at the back of the block. The #7 cap will drop beside the #7 block. Easy mistake. The crank will lock-up really really tight. The watch the dowels on the cap as they have to line-up going into the block. Next time I'm marking the caps with an arrow. These parts can go together many many different ways. I mistakenly put a few pistons on backwards yesterday. The crank should spin easy and shouldn't get tight at any time.

You know what torque your mains have to be torqued to? You're running 14mm studs right? The stock 12mm bolt requires 130ft*lbs and the rod caps required 73 ft*lbs. Should be torqued up evenly and in partial steps. 23-56-73 ft*lbs. The cap has to go down evenly on both sides.

Hopefully some of this helps you with your build. Try my best to give a few helping pointers. Most of this is pretty easy stuff. The 5.9/6.7L are pretty simple engines, just a few things to watch.

 

Thats the way they came from the machine shop when I pulled them off on Thursday. I had the #1 and #7 on that way when I left, all the rest were on the bench.

 

I think it would be pretty awesome to see Kev's smash into the 9's this year. He will have enough engine for two trucks

 

Kev here is some cummins part numbers for you're build. Some shops will help and some will not. This is 6.7L stuff, please measure before buying.
-6X 4955365 Piston kit (STD)
-1X 4955354 upper gasket kit
-6X 4893693 bearing, uppers, con rod (STD)
-6X 3969562 bearing, lowers, con rod (STD)
-1X 4955521 Mains (STD)
-1X 4943167 Gasket oil pan
-1X 3949562 Gasket, flange

I don't have part numbers for the rear main seal, front gearbox, front/rear seals, oil cooler, thermostat. Any feel free to add part numbers, sure helps keeping the project moving along.

Whats a cummins complete kit worth and how complete it is? Might be cheaper this way, as you get lots of stuff that not included that you don't need.

 

Here is what I have,, and what I need

I have 12 std size pistons (6 are cut .0070) the other ones I want to get reliefs cut into

I have 6 stock 12V rods

I have keepers,clips, rings etc

I need a head gasket from haisley due to the fire rings

I want to put all new bearings throughout the engine

I want to put a new oilpump in (due to oil starvation)

I have a cam (VP core) from Greg Hogue, Zach Hamilton has offered a billet cam for me to use for quite a reasonable price

 

Measure the crank? Is it standard? Measure the bores? Is it standard? From there it will tell what parts will work. The pistons will not FIT, give them to Tate. If the engine is standard, I probably get you a few 6.7L standard pistons, but you need rings. The bore on the 5.9L is different than a 6.7L, injector placement and bowl are way way different, VP pistons are close but you have the bore issue?

Cam, you getting a freebie? Are you going to need fly cuts? If you are, we need to get them sent out ASAP. I think if you're on a budget, just go with a stock or colt stage 3.

As for the fire rings? You will have to bug Haisley, they aren't cheap or quick. What head you running? The 03 injector will not fit into a 6.7L head, its needs some massaging.

 

I have pistons and rings. I have the greg hogue cam already, I just havent pulled it out yet to see if it is damaged from the oil issue.
Yeah I have to get on the Haisely thing here fairly quickly, I need to do some measurements on the rings I have and send it to them.

Who does Fly cuts?

 

OH and my head is an O3 head. My injectors are down at F1 getting checked out right now too

 

The fire ring is in the head? We have a shop that does fly cuts, being its a 6.7L, might take longer as we have only done 5.9's so far

How much is torn down on the engine? You have to make sure that the oil cooler seals up properely, as the inner gasket get damaged if you remove from the block.

On the rods, you getting bearings? If you are look for wear marks in the babbit. I would at least measure two journals, 270/90 deg's on the journals just make sure everything is round. and that the rods and the caps matched?

 

fire ring is in both the head and block. Engine is about 85 - 90% torn down

 

You have a service manual? Might be a good investment, probably save you time. You using the 03 rail, 03 gasket/wiring harness? If the oil pump isn't too badly damaged, you might be able to reuse it. Check for lobe/gear surface damage and looseness. The oil pump is pretty tough. What's the crank surfaces look like? Any of them need to be polished? I have two good 5.9L cranks on my garage floor right now. One has been polished/radius/balanced, ready to drop in.

I'll ask if we can fly cut used pistons.

 

Crank looks good,, one day here I will pull the cam and look at it. Cyl walls have slight scuffing, but nothing that my fingernail will catch on. The oil pump was more of a pre-emptive thing.

I will probably wait till Tate gets here before I really go any further, I cant get in too much of a rush right now anyways,, no $$$. I will probably get on top of the head gasket from haisely though

 

Here is a few pics from the weekend. We thru together a short block fairly quick, but I found that my complete gasket kits was incomplete, so we had to stop. Neat build, 370 marine piston, 24VP block, 24V crank, 12V head ported/oringed #60 springs, stage 3 cam, P7100 180 pump. Crank was balanced, polished, rods balanced, 12V english rod, new bushing.