Ok, I've been thinking about building one for the 5.9L CTD engine. Was about to commit to building one, similar to whats used in 350 chevy or ford. Ya simple stuff, but what value is it? With the oil squirters dumping tons of oil into the pistons, rods. I think it would just keep the oil on the crankshaft?

What you guys think?

 

Doesn't a windage help keep the crank from whipping up the top surface of the oil in the pan and turning it into a mist. Isolates the top of the oil in the pan from the spinning crank.

I beleive the scrapper removes "excess" oil that is flying around the spinning crank and returns it to the pan. The excess oil can be turned to a mist when hit by the spinning crank.

Having the crank spin in "free" air does make a difference.

Kind of hard to put it in words as to what they do but I think you can see where this is going.

Jeff

 

Thats the function of the crank scraper/windage tray is to remove the oil from the crank. With tons of oil being thrown at the bottom of the piston, makes me wonder if its a good idea to build a windage tray like you use in gaser world. I think all a windage tray would do is keep the oil above and on the crankshaft. The scrapper probably would still work.

The main reason for thinking about this I don't think the crank get to far into the oil pan, and scoops the oil up.

On a stock CTD engine, there is no oil pan baffles, no windage tray, no crank scrapper.

 

That's probably the key right there, 3200 rpm doesn't require them.

I would lean towards the scrapper myself if I had to make a choice but in all honesty, your not going to spin this thing fast enough let alone long enough to worry about it. Speaking of course, if this motor is for your drag truck.

Jeff

 

I'm planning on running at least 4500 to 5000 rpm's with this motor.

Gonna make the engine do some work, instead of the turbo. I'm the only guy that has no fuel issues, and not egt's. What's a turbo guy to do...

 

I think there would be some gains from either or both, BUT for the couple horsepower, I don't think it would be worth the effort needed.

 

I think you need to go back to work Mike! your thinking too much

 

I doubt that on a 5000 rpm engine, wether it a gas or diesel that there would be any significant gains to be had. Also any parasitic losses that may happen I believe would be more than compensated for by the extra tq and reciprocating weight that a diesel engine has

 

I think that the scrapper has merrit, I just don't know how to really get one to work right. Once you get the mains gridle installed, the crank is kinda hinden. Can see the gridle collecting oil, might need a mod to fix that issue.

How about polishing the skirt of the block? I know guys been spraying paint/polishing on the tappet valley of small block fords/chevies for years. Any value? Might just do a real good clean-up and remove casting debris from the block and crank. Want to open up the oil passage way's some and use a 24V parts on the 12v build.

Is croy the rods/crank add any value?

Chris, I think I owe you a lunch from last year. Going have to go downtown one day, I guess. Maybe then I'll do some of that work thingy.

 

Go dry sump and forget it. On anything other than an all out build, I think the 200+ lbs. of rotating and reciprocating mass will cut through that oil mist like nothing is there.

 

Good idea Tate. This isn't the all in engine, this is just high quality engine build. Probably going to throw it into my white ride.

Probably just throw a couple baffles in the oil pan this time around.

Also been thinking about seeing how much difference in valve position by changing from the 12v tappet to the 24V/CR tappet. The 24v tappet must be 1/8in wider than the standard 12V tappet. The valve train should be better on a 12v than a 24v, as you don't have weight of two valves, cross support rocker.

I have to bug Dave some more and see if we can get those pistons fly cut. Really want to adjust the cam centerline with the adjustable cam gear we have on the go.

Harry been complaining that his 12v has been to smokey/hazzy...

 

Try the CR tappets, they are a lot bigger than the 24v tappets. 1.5" diameter.

 

I would like to try all the different tappets and see. We can do that when we check the camshaft centerline and degree the camshaft. Also check the piston/valve clearance on the stock 370 industrial piston. As least then you'll know how much lash you can run on the valves.

There are no stage 4's cams in stock. I want one for my 2010 truck.