cLAYH

I think I may have bought the same one, how long did your take to arrive?


Thanks for the specs Jason.

morkable

3 4 days,, not long at all, it was uber fast shipping

Kevin

JHansen

You're welcome Clay-hope you get it back together and everything works AOK. What are you doing for injectors?

cLAYH

Edge stage I Jammer nozzles.

Mike Holmen

Clayh, have you measured up the rod new or you using an old rod? Have you measured up/checked the rod? You check the crush of the rod yet? I hate to see you loss a rod bearing. I would torque up the rod prior to installing (and bearing) and check the inside diameter. A new rod might have to be resized to fit your crank. You might have already done this. Sounds like fun.

cLAYH

Old rod/old bearing/same crank, don't foresee any problems. I should be able to turn the engine over by hand, if not......

BTW once the piston pin was out the piston fell into 2 pieces.

Mike Holmen

dumb questions, I just needed to ask. I would like just like to hear her run right. I started mine up today, its been a few days. I should see if things look ok as I'll be aligning my front end on tuesday. Its kinda a test to see if my mix and matching of parts, abit of trial and error work. Two different front end kits mixed together, on top of a complete new front end. I'm still learning my 02 dodge 101 mechanic's course.

DRD

I think you're crazy not to check the rod for twist/bend and measure the bores. I'd get a NDT done at the same time also. I've seen lot's of rod's get bent by trauma like that. Even a little bend will cause uneven loading on the rod bearing and can cause it to fail. You won't be able to tell by turning it over if it's bent slightly.

1-5-3-6-2-4

I strongly agree with that......thats why I mentioned checking all the rods before.

cLAYH

When the rod was out I placed it on a flat surface and checked for twist/bend, as for NDT...well thats just crazy talk. If I was that concerned about it I'd pull the whole block and send it in for rebuild.

Mike Holmen

There lots of sides to an engine repair of this nature. Lots of engine have been rebuilt the same way as you're doing Clayh.
I would be the guy that would miss one important step and then you have to go back into it again. I've been there myself, one to many times with my ride. Keep us up to date on you're progress.

cLAYH

Yeah, in-frames and just replacing bad pistons/parts are pretty common procedures on industrial engines. Blocks are typically good for a million miles vs a gas engine at 300k. Usually for a gas engine you would rebuild the whole thing completely for $2000-$4000 and it would need it at anything over 200K. This engine still has the crosshatch clearly visible and at $2000 for just the head we'll just do whats needed. If it blows up in my face I'll buy a used engine and drop it in there and resell the old one as a rebuildable core with a fresh head.

Checked the turbo today, no sign of anything in the manifold and no sign of FOD so I think I got lucky there.

That offsets the fact that I broke a piston ring trying to install the piston today. I was even using a ring compressor! I think I'll go back to using a couple of small screwdrivers, aleast I can see whats going on then.

Mike Holmen

Which tool you using? So I know not to buy one like it. I started up my truck today, I have an airbag light not ready on now. This little stuff drives me to drink.