Lil Dog

Competition diesel.com...

JHansen

So, out of mild curiousity , who's got a guess at what caused the catastrophe? Seats are still in the head....I assume a head popped off 1 valve and started the ball rolling? But why? Bad metallurgy, overtemp, bad luck? Amazing that the cylinder itself didn't get nuked with all that was going on.

I don't think there is an aftermarket (read offshore) supplier for 24 valve head castings yet-at least not last time I checked. I'm not sure if you can get core value for something like that or not. I think when I checked for a ReCon head for my truck when I did the head gasket a couple years back, they wanted $1800 exchange...on the bright side, they had one in stock. I passed..... Maybe a used one somewhere?

1-5-3-6-2-4

I believe stock valves have the heads friction welded on. you only dropped 1 valve in that hole.

I'd say from looking at it. a retainer, collet set or spring broke or something caused the 1 valve to drop and eat the other 3 valves and piston.

I'd get all your connecting rods check too

cLAYH

All springs and retainers are in place. Con rod looks good. I too thought it weird that the seats were still all in.....

JHansen

Here's another question just for funsies.....what does the turbo look like? I assume it sustained foreign object damage, but did the intake side turn goldish-colored-ie. big heat? Not that any of this really matters now, but I have a side that loves to know why things fail. Could be that it had some sort of upfueling and got worked literally to the breaking point.

I'm racking my brain right now trying to remember where I saw somebody trying to sell a CR engine with 1 dead hole. Probably gone by now anyways-that would be the ticket for a parts engine though.

Jason

Mike Holmen

My neighbor had a motor that lost #5 and #6 cylinder to burnt pistons. That lovely CR motor stuff. He bought a new engine from mopar. $13k and came with a six month warranty. We 24v vp guys just have cracked heads and that track bar issue. I'll take that over a ruined motor any day.

Jason, how much power steering gearbox pitman arm do you see on your truck. I rechecked mine yesterday, its kinda sloppy, I bet that I can see a couple 0.1 of movement in both directions. Can you adjust that by changing the preload on the rack or is my gearbox shot? My other vehicles, they don't have pitman arm and just have a rack and pinion set-up.

cLAYH

Where do I find the engine serial number? I cann't seem to find a CPL tag on the timing cover like my old truck had.....

Anyone know if pistons from a 12V motor will fit? Found a set for cheap....

Checkmate

There is one on the engine computer and also on the apps housing.

Checkmate

And about the pistons...your stuck payin over $300 ea. through cummins. They are made by Mahle, but you can't get them elsewhere. (except dodge of course)

JHansen

Hey Mike-the pitman arm free play is normal to a point-but not good. I have a DSS steering box brace on my truck-basically it puts the pitman arm in double shear by capturing the bottom in a brace mounted to the frame. It's a worthwhile investment for a 2G truck. I added it first, then after my box started leaking out the pitman shaft, changed it out for a 1500 version that is 3 turns lock to lock compared to the 4-1/4 turns of the stocker. All good now.

Clay, like Checkmate said, the 12 valve pistons won't work-the bowl is in a different location. And like he said, the ESN will be on the computer. My FSM says it is also stamped into the block on top of the oil cooler cavity.

Jason

cLAYH

Thanks I found it on the computer. Piston wasn't too bad, $225.

Ordering some parts today, there are two head gaskets available, 1.18mm and 1.25mm, any advantage to one or the other or go with what was in there?

morkable

if you are planning on going everything stock as in cam, pistons, porting etc, go with the thinner one. but if you are thinking about doing anything like that, go with the thicker one

Kevin

cLAYH

Can someone post the torque values for the connecting rod to crank bolts and oil pan bolts? I've oredered a manual but it won't arrieve till next week and I want to put the new piston in and button up the bottom end this weekend. Thanks!


BTW the head gasket that came out was the thicker one so thats what I put back in. I wonder if that engine has been apart before or maybe the HO motor uses the thicker gasket.....

morkable

I just bought a manual on dvd off of ebay,, like 20 bucks. I will look those up for you tonight

Kevin

JHansen

'03 service manual says the rods are a 3 step procedure-1st to (30 N.m) 22 ft. lbs, then to (60 N.m) 44 ft. lbs, then 60 degrees more-apparently torque-to-yield? Oil pan lists at 21 ft. lbs./28 N.m .

HTH
Jason