I let him know.

 

I talked it over with Kelly, and we figured we might as well just do it. We can always pay taxes later,, LMAO

 

Not sure about that Brett. That motor has been apart a few times. I wanted to say it spun a bearing first, than smashed the piston into the head. The shop that did the machine work says its common failure, same goes for the cam bearings issues.

Probably one of the worst failure we seen, besides that 12V we got. Thinking about how the oil poured out still makes me laugh with its marshwellow burnt looking piston.

 

Hey Morkable!!


Just subscribing...

You know my combo.. Lightened, polished VP rods and Monotherms..
But fuel only at 850 ish..

 

yeah, the big difference between yours and mine is that mine is a 6.7 block, which changes the angles etc. I am also considerably heavier fueled than yours. If I was building a 5.9 it would be like yours though for sure

 

Joe, I even thought about pulling those CR rods out of my 2010 6.7L and throwing in a set of 24VP rods, just haven't found time yet to do it. Also would like to fix a few other common CR engine issues.

 

So even then it wasn't the strength of the rod, that was the issue.

Yeah that 12v was gross, it was like black whipped cream.

 

The crazy idea of pulling my engine & fixing the CR weakpoints has crossed my mind.
It would soooo easy on an engine that's in good shape. Quick hone on the cylinders, 2003 coated pistons, new rings with greater end gap, 2003 nozzles,
machine off the cast intake, balance it all. Done!

Doing that in a controlled fashion rather than reacting to an engine problem or failure would be so much better, but who has the time & money to do that?


Back to connecting rods...

It looks like the Cummins forged rods would be a nice peace of mind upgrade for a low power engine that tows a fair bit like mine.

They're available everywhere for reasonable cost. Plus prep plus balancing.

http://www.motorsportdiesel.com/stor...-10721529.aspx


Are there any rod options between the $2500 R&R's or Carillos & the OEM forged rods?

 

Not that I am aware of.

 

Whats your end goal Joe? For a 500 hp tow truck, I think what you're looking at is way over kill. 625's is way over kill. All the more power to you if thats what you want to do, but unless you're flirting with 4 digit power, most stock components are fine. The early piston/injector combo would definitely be a step in the right direction. But thats a lot of work to fix an issue that normally doesn't show its face unless you're running a Smarty and dual CP3's. If you're gonna pull a CR, put a 12v back in it, if you're looking for reliability and simplicity.

 

I agree with Tate, for a daily driver it isn't required. I wanted my 2010 to be able to handle around 800-1000rwhp and still use it as a daily driver. I'm still waiting on someone to build a RFE68 (reasonable priced) so I can least try to hang with the 12V DD trucks. Hate to throw this out, but lots of guys have run near stock trucks and make big power with them.

 

All excellent points & good discussion guys but wait until I start a new thread instead of cluttering up Kevin's race truck discussion.

Sorry about that Kevin, back to the original topic...

 

Joe, these things need to be discussed. If you melt down at some point, I hope you would feel comfortable to allow us to get you back so you can run again. Aftermarket rods in a daily driver non puller/non drag truck is over kill. I would wait till something occurrs, throw in a set of 12V's rods.

I want a 6.7L to make some local Alberta power. Way to many have heard way to many stories of 6.7L issues, but don't believe any of them.

I will be building a 5.9L with the works. If you want to stop by and ask whats up, you bring the beer. Those banks intakes plenum cost around $700.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ighlight=42747