I plan on taking pretty much every non useful lb off of the truck, my goal is to be as close to 5000# as possible. The engine is going to be capable of 1500 HP + but I am planning on tuning it down to around 1000, 1100 HP (which should make it live and the tranny)

My thoughts are that 5000 or even 5500# and 1100 HP should run high 9's all day, and be reliable what do you guys think?

 

As long as you use good hard parts in that engine, have good machine work done, and use proper clearances. I don't see any issues with that plan.

I know you don't want to hear this, but I don't think 12v rods are a wise choice in that plan.

Your current chargers will probably need to be traded as well to get something a little more suitable. Maybe not both but one for sure.

 

LOL oh yeah I forgot I have to do this in a very tight budget,,, LMAO

I agree on the rods,, but unfortunately its all I can afford, I will run these turbos for now,, talked to a couple differnt turbo guys and they say that the 488 will be good to 1400 hp,, and it isnt like I havent ever ran a turbo out of its map before,, lol I would like to have a s510 or 595 under the 475, but just not in the books for the coming year anyways.

 

I agree with Brett on both accounts. Go cheap on the rods now, and they punch a hole through the block and you're back to square one. Keep in mind that 6.7's have a much worse rod ratio, which means more side loading and likelihood of hurting the rods. Couple that with 1100hp (where 12v rods are near their limit), and I think you're asking for a recipe for disaster. If you want it reliable, overbuild it. Right now, you have the engine and fueling to support it, but the hard parts are lacking.

Turbo side, 88mm might be capable of 1400 hp as a single, or on a gasser. I don't see it in a twin setup. Granted, you do spray a lot, but so do other guys. Looks at other high hp setups. Lots of guys are running 66-71mm chargers over a 95-106mm turbos. You're a 75 over an 88. It doesn't seem like a very good combination. I know you say you don't care about spool that much, but like big blue24 said, it doesn't matter until you need to feather the throttle, and then you fall off the charger. Even stepping down to a smaller secondary (S465) would be a step in the right direction, IMO. I'd hate to see you rush this and cheap out in certain aspects and have it all blow up.

 

I agree on the rods,, I will have to see if I can find the money for those rods that Torrey has. I really am not worried about spooling the 475, nitrous is a great thing, I only plan on spraying a little (enough to help spool and keep egt's down, not any more than that though)

I would like to have a bigger bottom turbo though,, but I will probably have to run it at least for part of the year next year,, lack of cash to upgrade...... working on slicks right now... btw do you know anyone that might want some 20's on nice rims?

 

Converter selection will help a lot on the spool, as will good tuning. I also forget that you are running a 6.7, which will really help with the spool.

I would seriously look at selling the S488, and move into an S500 chassis turbo, or the GT thumper (cast, journal bearing) garrets. You should almost be able to trade straight across, as iirc an S595 is only about $1800 new, and an S488 has to be close to that.

 

I've been meaning to looking and see what I can get for pricing on the S595 (rebuilt), we seem to stumble on this find for the S475. Its priced right and its as has been completely rebuilt. I probably could even work out a trade for your existing turbo, if you want.

Outside of the rods, you might want to step into forged pistons, but then again we did have to good of luck with them, but they got damaged due to other reasons.

The group buy that we got onto for rods, for R&R is pretty decent for what your getting. I plan to take a few engine in for billet mains and gridle here in the next few weeks. Not sure if I like the idea of running 14mm studs for a 6.7L, there is hardly any head surface to start with in a 6.7L

I do have a extra 6.7L block available. I would also go for a completely worked over head (intake removed).

Sounds like an awesome project.

 

Yes please see what you can find Mike, I appreciate it.

Just so you have a list of what is all done to my engine

14mm ARP studs
ARP studs throughout engine
Fire Ringed
03 Head with ARP rocker bolts, billet retainers etc.
Origional pistons were cut approx .070 (need to measure to be sure) and coated. I have a set of stock 6.7 pistons that I want to have reliefs cut in (I want to keep compression ratio up) I also want to get this pistons coated.
Max Spool Cam (have the specs wrote down here someplace) Both Greg and Zach have offered to help me out on a new billet cam
F1 injectors (waiting for them to come back from Don)

In the next month or 2 Mike we will be starting to do some work here on this ( I will be talking to you more then)

Thanks guys

Oh I also will need to talk to that fellow in Calgary regarding my tranny too. It is in need of new clutches etc

 

Anything different with the bottom end? You running arp studs and what girdle you running? Stock stuff? piston bowl design? stock or different. Been thinking about trying a different bowl for the 6.7L for older style nozzles. There is differences between years of engines. Not sure on how your oil swirters are configured? You are going to have to let us know what style of nozzles Don is using. A modifed engine requires a different piston configuration from stock. I think you can run the stock 12V rods for now if the budget is tight, what the worst could happen. Its racing.

 

The 6.7 pistons are very similar to the 03 pistons, hence why I use a 03 head.
That was kind of my thought about the rods,, (mind you they are going to be all peened, cyro'd and polished) if they go, just get a new block and start over. Not really the end of the world. The oil squiters are 1 per piston (to the best of my memory)

The injectors are 03 design.

 

Plus machine work, crank, cam, pistons, etc. You know the cost of a grenaded engine, it could potentially take out much more than just the block.

Building a reliable 1100hp engine on a shoestring budget isn't feasible, IMO. Somethings gonna give, and either way, you're gonna be paying for it.

 

I can do it, not sure if its not completely shoestring budget worth but willing to try. Machining to me isn't that big of deal, been lucky so far. I'm cool what ever way you want to roll. I rather run a VP style bowl, no lip, more top ring distance from the crown. What angle is Don going with? The 03 is very similar to the 02 for nozzle. Easy to get custom nozzles these days. My vote is for extergy, but that me. I would like to approach a piston outfit saying I want xyz for piston, than work with than the a stock 03 piston or 6.7 piston.

Depends on what you need machined and what required, to put a cost to it. Basically you have to measure and compare to what the spec is. CR rods are bad, had a few bent and egged shaped. 12VP rods are ok, prefer VE stuff myself.

 

gut the bed
fiberglass bedsides and fenders
chop the back half of the frame as you wont need it.
4 link the rear because time you got traction bars under it you would have had a 4 link setup just as easy

easier to shed weight then make hp...cheaper too.

http://www.fiberwerx.com/html/dodge/...gallery10.html

building abominations is right up my alley

 

I have talked to those guys before, they only make the flared stuff for off road guys.. not only that, but beleive it or not the fiberglass stuff is in most cases actually heavier than the sheet metal that is already there. If I had the money I found a place that will build me panels out of a fiberglass, carbon fiber hybird material, something like 6 lbs for a front fender etc. BUT not cheap. I am for sure going to gut everything non essential, I would like to go to a 4 link, not sure if it will happen this winter or not though.

Definately all the glass is coming out and plexi going in. Box is pretty much already gutted. Working on getting some slicks right now

Mike, the injectors that I have (at F1 Diesel) are designed for a 03 bowl. Which is what the stock 6.7 is like

As for maching, I dont think I really need very much maching done on this engine. Which is another reason I am not too worried about running the 12v rods. Really what is the worst case scenario,, rod bends, or breaks,, puts a couple holes in the block,, takes out a cam.... not too serious,, really not much more than what just the billet rods are worth, and then I could start all over proper. I hate fire ring, wish it wasnt there, but for right now I am stuck with it. So if I was doing it over there would be no fire rings, just o-rings. And then I would do the head properly, not like what I have right now... and to be honest, once the money is there I will get a head done right, cut off the intake, get a real port job done etc.....

But I am not trying to get extra HP out of this engine, it will have more than enough HP for what I want for this upcoming season, in fact I am going to tune it down (this engine has done over 1200 hp at the wheels on fuel only,, now I have better injectors, otherwise everything will be the same.

 

Where machining and everything becomes expensive, isn't on this block it is WHEN those 12v rods let go. As now you have to find a new block, new girdle, new studs, new rods, new cam, ect...

6.7's Need aftermarket rods period. The torque they develop from the extra stroke is too much for any factory rod past about 800hp.

If this was a 12v 5.9 I would give it a shot as is, they don't typically develop the cylinder pressure, and low end torque a common rail does, and can have full fuel out into the 5000rpm+ area. That and they really aren't that expensive or tough to rebuild.

A common rail is. You are looking at nearly $2000 in just pistons, rings and wrist pins, for a common rail. Even with just stock components, you are looking at nearly $5000 for a mostly stock short block, and that is with you assembling it.

IMHO either get a set of aftermarket rods, or back the horsepower down to 750 - 800.

How light you get it, is purely a function of time available and cubic dollars available.