My clutch has started the jumping thing when I start out in 1st or 2nd, and I'm having trouble getting into reverse without a grind. With 242K miles on it I figure the clutch needs replacement.

I seem to recall reading a post not long ago by somebody with a fleet of high mileage Dodge 3500s with the 5.9 Cummins and NV5600. He said he has tried many of the aftermarket clutches (SB, Valair, etc) and that the stock OE clutch outlasts them all by a long shot. Can't find that post or thread. Just hoping somebody might be able to verify.

Also, wondering whether I can get away with replacing the clutch plate and resurfacing the flywheel, or will I need to replace the pressure plate as well? Not sure I can even get a clutch plate without the pressure plate. I sure don't see them advertised.

The heaviest I tow is a 4-horse trailer loaded, or a 16' flatbed with a car on it. Probably 7500# at best. The stock clutch has been just fine for me. I don't think I need anything stronger.

Thanks

 

Dodge uses Luks in these but way overpriced buying from Dodge Mopar parts counter.

definitely have the flywheel resurfaced, heat checked and may be warped. old flywheel surface doesn't seat well against new clutch friction mat.

are you running any power add with the prog combo.?

if so, get an upgraded clutch with organic friction material that's designed for med > hvy towing.
the organic gives you smooth clutch engagement to prevent breaking horsey legs and ribs on backing and take off.

you'll want a complete package, friction disc+pressure plate+throwout bearing+ greased pilot bearing
new hydraulics also, your old ones are fried and worn out.
new flywheel grade 8 bolts and pressure plate bolts.
red thread locker.

new flywheel optional if old one not grindable
have the old FW pilot bearing hole turned out to use the HD upgrade pilot bearing with inner race, saves the tranny from snapped off input shaft nose. HD bearing last forever.

my recommendations:

SB 1947-O Dyna Max Clutch Kit
http://www.southbendclutch.com/1947cono.html

http://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-233...nv5600-13.aspx

or
http://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-233...nv5600-13.aspx

Luk RepSet 05-101

http://catalog.schaeffler-aftermarke...5.9L&qualfier=

 

This was from a long time ago, but I thought I'd post a followup. Might be good info for somebody else.

I had the clutch replaced with the heavy duty (stage 3, I think) clutch from NAPA. It had the ceramic pucks. I had told the shop I hauled a heavy horse trailer and was considering going into Hot-Shotting and wanted a HEAVY DUTY clutch. From the very start this clutch was grabby, which eventually degenerated into the worst kind of jumping and grabbing I've ever experienced. It was to the point that I was worried about damaging my driveline and tranny.

After almost a year of just dealing with it, it was getting worse, so I took it in and had the clutch replaced with a standard OEM heavy-duty clutch with the organic pucks (as suggested by Steelhead). The shop that did the work said it didn't look like the previous shop had resurfaced the flywheel when they replaced the original clutch. This shop resurfaced the flywheel and had to take off nearly .030. Anyway, I'm happy now. I have a nice, smooth clutch engagement and I'm not experiencing any clutch slippage while hauling my horses (decided against the hot-shotting option).

So, that's my followup.

 

I bought my clutch from NAPA, it is the highest torque rated clutch that they offer. It is a kit, has flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, bearing. All of it. I have a Bully Dog on mine and run it in "tow" with zero problems. It is a LUK clutch in a NAPA box.